Skip to content

Start Spreading the News

Philadelphia-cookbook Kraft and whomever else can put ads on every page corner of Bon Appetit for all I care—they lost me months ago. Gourmet loyalists have already proven that they won’t be won over the by the BA, and at least now there is no pretense of publishing a sophisticated food magazine. Let it all hang out.

One of my only concerns with Taste of Home, my latest subscription, is their rampant abuse of cream cheese. Philadelphia cream cheese is the anti-raw milk Époisses. I happen to like both, but please don’t make me puree the soft white block into a pesto. Thanks.

Chain Links: Turkish Delights

Turkish sbarro

Once again, faraway lands succeed where New York fails. Brooklyn just got its first Arby’s earlier this year and now Turkey will be getting 50 in the next five years? The Tab Gida group already franchises Sbarro, Popeye’s and Burger King in Turkey, so maybe Beef ‘n Cheddars are no big whoop. [QSR]

Yum! Brands is popular in China, and not just because of KFC and Pizza Hut. The company was wise enough to realize that locals will only eat so much Western food, hence the creation of East Dawning, a Chinese fast food restaurant. I wish they’d import one to the states. [Forbes]

The UK doesn’t have a surfeit of Mexican fast food so new entries, Chipotle and Taco Bell might have a chance for success (even though Taco Bell already failed once). Whether or not Ruby Tuesday, which just opened its first UK location in Cardiff, will win over the Brits is up for debate. [The Independent]

Turkish Sbarro photo from Bayim Olur musun.

BJ’s vs Costco: A Showdown

Bj's excursion

No, I don’t plan on becoming a freebie review blog or purveyor of haul videos anytime soon. I do have a fondness for suburban big box retailers, though. And if they ply me with baked goods, trial membership and a gift card, I will see what’s what at BJ’s Wholesale.

Being from the Northwest, I’ve always been a Costco loyalist, and am currently a member. And I’m guessing more New Yorkers are too, since Costco tends to be closer in on subway lines (Sunset Park, Long Island City, Harlem and Staten Island) even though you really need a car at least for the day to make the shopping trip worthwhile. BJ’s also has four NYC locations: Starrett City, Flushing, College Point and the Bronx. Canarsie is on the horizon.

I set out to compare new-to-me BJ’s to Costco, my old standby, in Edison, NJ where I normally shop once a month. (Oddly, there was just an article in the Wall Street Journal sizing up all of these warehouse clubs.) Memorial Day wasn’t likely representative because so many people were out of town; the place was empty, a total breeze to navigate. I won’t let the ease of shopping sway me.

Bj's card

Sad as it sounds, both my grainy black-and-white Costco and BJ’s card photos are about as flattering as a snapshot of me gets. I actually like this photo and my Costco one too (I’ve misplaced that card).

I only have a handful of things I regularly buy or look for at Costco. James has the bigger list so I used his as a checklist.

He was looking for:
Scoop Away litter in big buckets
Coke Zero
Frozen shrimp
Rotisserie chicken

We found all of these….er, and then some. This is what we ended up with in our cart.

2 packages of Scoop Away
1 case Coke Zero
1 case Seagram’s Ginger Ale
1 box of 18 Kashi granola bars
3-pack of Melita cone filters
1 bottle of 1,000 vitamin C
1 case of 36 cans Fancy Feast
1 bottle folic acid
1 rotisserie chicken
10 lbs Tyson chicken wings
1 pack of 8 13-watt mini bulbs
1 6-pack Fage yogurt with honey
1 2-lb bag jumbo shrimp
1 loaf rosemary pugliese bread
1 bottle Clorox cleaner
2-pack Roc night cream

Where BJ’s Wins

One of BJ’s selling points is that they take manufacturer’s coupons. I don’t use coupons so that didn’t do anything for me. The biggest differences were hours and payment methods. Costco pisses me off that they close at 6pm. I get a late start on the weekends, rarely making it out of the house by 3pm. BJ’s is open till 10pm so they win on that count. Costco only takes Amex, BJ’s takes all credit cards.

The biggest coup, though, may have been the $8.99 six-packs of Fage. I’ve been waiting for Greek yogurt to come to Costco for ages. I prefer the plain 2% since I add in my own agave syrup but I’ll take the ones with honey if need be.

Apparently, Coke Zero is only occasionally at Costco (I have no interest in soda). BJ’s did have it.

Along with Edison, Linden, NJ  is our other favorite New Jersey suburb to hit. It’s the closest town to the Outerbridge Crossing with good shopping. The Linden BJ’s, which we didn’t visit, has gas. Staten Island is the only nearby Costco location that has a gas station. 

Where Costco Wins

I like raw shrimp in bags, not cooked. Costco has both forms in various sizes. BJ’s had an entire end freezer case of shrimp but only the bag of jumbo came uncooked. I prefer extra large.

I drink seltzer water like crazy and only saw San Pellegrino in cans at BJ’s, no other brands. I didn’t see my usual 1 liter plastic bottles of Vintage brand.

The New Jersey Costcos carry alcohol while BJ’s does not. BJ’s does sell liquor in their NYC locations, but I try to avoid suburban stores in the city because they are disappointing.

To be honest, my favorite part of BJ’s was the worldweary 40-something staffer with a Dorothy Hamill haircut (I’m dating myself) and the firm yet pleasant personality of a flight attendant (more stewardess, really) who was drumming up interest for a free giveaway. She was hanging out next to the rotisserie chickens, chatting into a microphone that wasn’t projecting over the intercom. I tried to ignore the spiel, but James caved just like the rest of the group that formed around her platform at the end of the frozen food aisle waiting to get a free sample of the ShamWow-type product she was talking up. She had a different approach than Vince Offer, but she had a style of her own. Performance over, I spied her on our way out the door, sitting inside the model tool shed next to the entrance, cigarette in hand. The bad kids hangout.
 
So, it kind of sounds like on Team BJ’s. We just renewed our Costco membership in March, so I won’t be reevaluating this very important situation until next year. I’m pretty sure we’ll give BJ’s our business in 2011, though.

If You Like Piña Coladas

Regalbeagle

I'm breathing a little easier now that our nation's youth has begun to fixate on the '90s (I'm acquainted with the throwers of this party, so maybe it's just a Brooklyn microcosm) instead of the earlier decade. I guess that's what happens when Gen Y starts hitting their 30s. But as scornful as I am for mindless nostalgia, the '70s were my '80s and I became genuinely excited last night as I read about a potential fern bar revival.

I wish I had a job that would send me to Tales of The Cocktail instead of the Special Library Association's annual conference, also about to take place in New Orleans, because I would love to attend this session: "The Smooth and Creamy History of the Fern Bar." It’s not really a contest compared to "How Business Information Professionals Can Move Up The Value Chain.” (Um, probably by not blogging during work hours—I’m typing this at night, I swear.)

I wasn't old enough to drink in the '70s or even the '80s, but I love the Regal Beagle concept. Maybe that's why I enjoy eating at chain restaurants so much; Ruby Tuesday, Houlihan’s and their ilk. If I had a time machine I would totally go back to Midnight Cowboy-era NYC and sip a tequila sunrise at the original T.G.I. Friday's, gritty cityscape be damned. (I associate fern bars with a west coast, Christopher Cross, honeymoon in Hawaii vibe.)

Sadly, Martin Cate, the moderator of this Tales of the Cocktail panel, doesn't see a progression from speakeasy to tiki to fern bar actually happening. Are we just a bunch of sophisticates?

I'm not. In fact, this weekend I made my first white wine spritzer. Yes, I am officially elderly. I rarely drink during the day (even though I’d like to) and this Saturday afternoon I wanted a refreshing alcoholic beverage while writing (I write faster when I'm not dead sober) but didn't want to conk out by 7pm. I'm not saying the Charles Shaw Sauvignon Blanc and club soda was good; it wasn't. I did keep my concentration, though. Next up, Fuzzy Navels and Strawberry Margaritas.

No, we are not sophisticates. Someone must still be buying those T.G.I. Friday’s branded Long Island Ice Teas and Mudslides in jugs.

La Nacional

I wouldn’t say that I’m one of those I’ve been going there since before you were born when things were better types. Yes, I remember Sripraphai when it was a single-room operation, and I’m suspicious of the new valet parking-and-reservations Tanoreen. Even though I believe there is no glory in gloating at newcomers, I feel a little sheepish about having never visited La Nacional till now. I’ll never know its grimy, pre-renovation beauty.

La nacional third world plumbing

The new iteration is hardly shiny and modern, though. While commonplace in Mexico and Thailand—my last two foreign frames of reference—I never encounter the quaint please no paper in the toilet plumbing in the US. That’s charm! And bizarrely, I was faced with the exact bathroom situation the very next day at Ocean’s 8, a subterranean Prospect Heights pool hall/sports bar that appears to be in a former movie theater.

La Nacional’s tapas are derrière-guard and old-fashioned, relying heavily on garlic and olive oil, not spherification or food play. The dim windowless main room with a spruced up checkerboard floor, is crying out for a haze of cigarette smoke. Clean air is the most un-Spanish thing about the scene.

La nacional tapas

/p>We ordered enough tapas to constitute a meal: patatas bravas, garlic shrimp and oblong and round croquetas filled separately with chicken and shrimp. Shades of brown and orange dominated.

La nacional patatas bravas

The patatas bravas were perfunctory, but lacking a super hot interior with seared edges. They could’ve been more golden. Huh, I have seven totally different patatas bravas in my Flickr stream, more than I thought. Maybe there is no universally agreed upon style.

La nacional albondigas

These albondigas, a pork-veal blend, were very soft and springy. Meatballs are on trend, right?

La nacional bar

The two men on stools with similar taste in hats were easily 35 years apart in age.

La nacional exterior

It turned out that we didn’t need to order any end-of-meal cheese. We peeked our heads into the art opening that was taking place upstairs at the Spanish Benevolent Society, and wine, Manchego and chorizo were for there for the taking. I did stuff a few bucks into the donation jar.

La Nacional * 239 W. 14th St., New York, NY

Chain Links: Payback For the Banh Mi Onslaught

We just call them homeless. In Shanghai, working poor “McRefugees” have been treating KFC and McDonald’s as alternative bedding. As many as 30-40 men (it sounds like a male thing) show up nightly to sleep on chairs and in booths. The practice is not uncommon in South Korea, Japan and Hong Kong. [Southern Weekly via Shanghaiist]

We don’t even have Carl’s Jr. in NYC yet Ho Chi Minh City welcomed one this week. It is the first American fast food burger chain to enter the country. Twenty-five more are slated for the next six years. [QSR Magazine]

Starbucks won’t be heading to South Africa but their coffee will be served in select hotels and casinos through a licensing agreement. Just in time for the World Cup. [Fast Casual]

La Casita Blanca

While El Jibarto served solid Puerto Rican food I was familiar with, La Casita Blanca offered unique dishes and a welcoming, cookbooks and knick-knacks setting that I didn’t encounter elsewhere in San Juan. I hate to overstate the just like grandma’s house vibe (especially since my grandma wasn’t particularly known for her cooking—she did have lots of owl tchotkes, though).

Casita blanca exterior

Perhaps the character of this pocket of the Santurce neighborhood changes after dark, but I had been expecting a rougher area based on a smattering of online reviews. I only encountered bodegas, men working on cars outside, roosters on the loose (heard, not seen) and incongruously, a brand new luxury condo building at the top of road. (The only two times I’ve even been a crime victim were both in the Pacific Northwest, mugged in Portland and robbed in Vancouver, BC. Nothing bad has ever happened in Asia, Latin America or Europe, so I don’t worry about these things when traveling and I suggest you don’t either.)

Casita blanca chicken soup & bread bag

Casita blanca scallion fritters

When first seated you are given a little brown bag filled with strips of focaccia, and chicken rice soup in a paper cup. A pile of thin fritters colored with bits of green onion also show up. They were just like mini scallion pancakes and were exactly the type of thing that lend the home cooked feel. No one else in Puerto Rico provided a greasy snack while deciding what to order. 

Casita blanca entrance

No English is spoken and the blackboard menu carried table to table is written in Spanish. I would just take a chance on something if you weren’t sure. The only word that threw me for a loop was tenera. Not fish, beef, chicken, goat, duck, turkey, lamb, rabbit or pork, what else could it be? I was kind of hoping it was goat. I know that meat as chivo; maybe they use a different word in Puerto Rico? I asked about it in Spanish and our waiter tried responding in English but the only word he could say sounded like beer. Beer?

Ah, beef, I later realized. Tenera is veal. Instead of the mysterious fricase de tenera, I went for the fricase de pollo just to be sure. Ok, I just violated my advice to take a chance on something unknown.

Casita blanca fricase de pollo

The food is simple with colorful presentations. All that annatto orange looks inviting when completed by shreds of purple, framed by two lengths of sweet plantain. One of the only reasons I fear stewed dishes like this is that I worry that the meat will be bland and dry, but it’s never the case, not with chicken adobo or this fricase served with the classic mound of rice. Rich, tomatoey with added salinity from the green olives and capers, the stew transcends a plate of boiled chicken parts.

Casita blanca anisette shot

You are sent off with a shot of anisette and coffee beans. Like I said, I didn't want to to overstate the granny vibe, but get an eyeful of that lace tablecloth topped with plastic.

La Casita Blanca * Calle Tapía 351, San Juan, Puerto Rico

Chains For Good

Sweet dreams

I was like whatever when I heard about Blue Marble Ice Cream opening the new Brooklyn Bridge Park because big shared outdoor spaces are useless to me. (Seriously, I looked at a few One Brooklyn Bridge condos, and the neighboring park as selling point backfired. The Manhattan views were lovely, but you’d have to wear blinders. I’m trying to escape the families, bikes, strollers, dogs and lollygaggers of Carroll Gardens, not have hundreds of them concentrated outside my home.)

But Blue Marble Ice Cream in Rwanda? That’s totally different. The Brooklyn-based company has been involved in a training program teaching local women how to run a business. Inzozi Nziza, a.k.a. Sweet Dreams, touted as the country’s first ice cream show, will open June 5.

The big unanswered question is are Rwandans familiar with ice cream and do they like it? And even bigger—what will the flavors be?

So Cool: Blue Marble Opens Rwanda’s First Ice-Cream Shop [Grub Street]

Photo from Blue Marble Dreams

El Jibarito

The food at El Jibarito isn’t radically different from what you find in NYC; the photogenic cobblestoned streets, palm trees and macaron-colored stucco of Old San Juan just make it seem better (sorry, Spanish Harlem).

El jibarito
El jibarito interior

I don’t mind my first meal in a scorching, new-to-me city being in an air conditioned tourist neighborhood. I need to get my bearings in comfort. The comfortable restaurant wasn’t as hickish as its name might imply; a jibarito is akin to a hillbilly.

El jibarito fried pork

Knowing that I was about to embark on a long weekend of rich, fatty eating, I ordered the pernil instead of the fried pork even though that’s what I really wanted. Still pork, obviously. But they brought me the masitas fritas, anyway. My secret wish fulfilled.

El jibarito ribs in plaintain sauce

James opted for a pork rib dish in a plantain sauce. We ordered rice and beans and tostones as sides to share. Someone in the kitchen decided that the fried plantains went with my food and the rice and beans with the other dish.

El Jibarito * Calle Sol 280, San Juan, Puerto Rico

Gourmet Latino Festival

Gourmetlatino Every so often I'll take a break from being a self-obsessed (though rarely self-promotional) blogger and mention an event that has nothing to do with me. I tend to ignore all the cooking competitions (I can only be so Brooklyn) but I do have a soft spot for Latin cuisine.

June 4-12, the Gourmet Latino Festival will be held in New York City. That means parties, educational seminars and food and wine pairing dinners. Zarela Martinez, Sue Torres, Maricel Presilla, Julian Medina and Jose Garces are among many chefs represented. And the cocktail side isn't shabby either: Dale DeGroff, Junior Merino and Julie Reiner are just a few who will be involved.

Restaurants in the New York area will be serving special menus during Authentic Dining Week, June 8–12. Here is the list. I've been meaning to try Cucharamama in Hoboken for a million years, so maybe I will.