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Posts by krista

Crêpes du Nord

I don’t make a habit out of eating two crepes for lunch, but if a near-stranger with a gift card for a restaurant across the street from my office offers to share their bounty, I don’t say no. I’m up for food blog blind dates.

Crepes du nord proscuitto crepe
I enjoyed a buckwheat crepe similar to what they serve at Bar Breton. The grains add heft to the soft pancakes and make the meal feel healthy even though it’s filling. I feel the same way about soba; even though I prefer udon the brown pleasingly gritty noodles just seem more angelic nutritionally. Mine was served open-faced, filled with ricotta and topped with a handful of arugula and slices of prosciutto. Though a few dollars more than I normally allow myself for lunch (this one was $11 but many are $8-$9) a savory crepe could make a nice sandwich alternative and certainly beats a BMT (yes, I’ve been known to frequent the Subway, a few storefronts down the street).

Crepes du nord chicken crepe
You know this is the country herb chicken because they put a few meaty clues on top.

Crepes du nord cloudberry crepe
Since I was double-creping it, I went simple with a triangular (these are not buckwheat, as you can probably see) pancake drizzled with a cloudberry syrup and a dollop of cream. Lingonberries, cloudberries, gooseberries…all foreign and indiscernible to me. Of course, I can tell a raspberry from a blackberry from a blueberry by taste, but cloudberries in this form? I could only describe the flavor as sweet with the smallest amount of tartness.

A sweet crepe filled with chocolate, probably Nutella, was the first thing I ever ate in France so I always associate the folded-like-a-napkin treats strongly with the cuisine (never mind that Crêpes du Nord is billed as French-Scandinavian). And that sounds far more pretentious than intended.

Whenever someone mentions going to France as a kid, it shifts my opinion of them, and not always for the better. Tony Bourdain, who I’m lukewarm on anyway, loses me when he drops childhood visits to France into his shows. I’m currently reading Rob Sheffield’s Talking to Girls About Duran Duran and I was like “what?!” when I hit the chapter where his family takes a road trip across Europe. It’s hard to paint yourself as an awkward teen with crappy jobs when you get to go to France, Italy and Spain for the summer. And sure, European Vacation was about rubes abroad, but in reality with only about 30% percent of Americans owning passports, traveling to France with kids is not only a luxury, it’s a rarity. I can only think, “Wow, you had a charmed childhood and wealthy, open-minded parents.” I feel the same about where-to-take-the-parents round-ups that suggest Daniel and Minetta Tavern. Sorry, you're getting Totonno's and East Buffet.

I did stay with a family in Nerac, France, so-called melon (the only food I won’t eat) capital of the world in July 1989. I couldn’t swing a full year or even a semester abroad, but I was serious about saving up for my month and got my first job, bussing tables for $3.35 an hour at Hunan Garden, on the same strip as Skate World and Donut Barn. Even though I ended up being kind of bored and miserable in the countryside (I wanted the romance of Paris, duh) and ultimately getting parental financial assistance (which I’m still surprised happened) the 31-day-trip was one of the wisest things I did in the ‘80s. And despite numerous trips to Asia and other parts of Europe I’ve never returned to France and currently have no inclination to (right now, I’m toying with San Sebastian or Lima) because I hate idealized Cartier-Bresson/Amelie stereotypes. The Japanese have learned not to idealize (seriously, you have to read about “Paris Syndrome”) and so should we all.

As to Crepes du Nord, I would return if I could sneak out of the office for a late lunch and take advantage of their two-for-one 4-7pm happy hour. Drinking during the work day is a luxury I’ve managed to resist so far, but 2011 may be the year I cave. There’s nothing uncivilized about an occasional midday glass (or two) or wine, right? Oh dear, now I’m starting to sound French or something.

Crêpes du Nord * 17 S. William St., New York, NY

Chain Links: Valentine’s Egg Tarts

Chili1 First, it was KFC making Japanese consumers associate fried chicken with Christmas and now it’s KFC linking egg tarts to Valentine’s Day (subscription required). I tried those Portuguese tarts in a Beijing airport and, yes, I would swap them for a box of Russell Stover (am I the last to know that Russell Stover and Whitman’s is the same chocolate?) in a heartbeat. Of course, China has its share of cynics. 27-year-old Yao Lianyi said “The only foundation behind these holidays is commercialism.” Sweet, eggy commercialism.

Apparently, last February KFC in Singapore hosted a blogger event to promote the Valentine’s/Chinese New Year egg tarts…and well, you don’t really see posts like this in NYC.

Chains expand and invade on a daily basis, but Russia’s first Chili’s has been getting more press than others. I’ve learned quite a few things: that they won’t be serving their signature black bean burger (I had no idea a veggie patty was their calling card), there’ll be vodka bottle service and toothpicks at the table and perhaps, most strangely, that Chili’s toned down the spice level in Puerto Rico.

Jubilant FoodWorks, the company that operates Domino’s in India, will be responsible for a “yet-unnamed international food chain.” What will it be?

Likely not Quiznos, which has been named to open five stores by the end of this year. New sauces, more vegetarian offerings and “Indian grains,” whatever that means exactly, will be used in the bread. I could totally see flatbread Sammies made with naan.

Tim Hortons is the latest brand to expand to the Middle East.

Latvia will receive three new McDonald’s locations this year. Their menu doesn’t appear wildly different from the US one, though I don’t think we have a CBO (Chicken Bacon Onions).

Photo: Vladimir Filonov/Moscow Times

Chicken Scratch

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I can’t decide if Fedora’s unusual fried chicken presentation is creepy or creative.

Chicken foot

I encountered the naked chicken claw a few Christmases ago when I bought a Chinatown bird to roast. Leaving on the gnarly feet, never even occurred to me.

Baked stargazy pie

Then again, I thought baking a fish head pie would be cute.

So, verdict: creative.

Fried chicken photo: Metromix

The Great Pyramid

AA2080 Everyone’s obese and we need to eat less or we will all die. I didn’t actually scrutinize the new USDA dietary guidelines, but I’m pretty sure that’s the gist. Also, did you know that in China they have a food pagoda instead of a pyramid?

As the American public ignores the recommendations as they do every five years, the PR-savvy see this as the perfect opportunity to tout brands and organizations that fit into this new rubric–no matter how tenuous the connection.

Here is a random sampling of who’s promoting themselves as USDA dietary guideline-friendly since the news was announced Monday:

The Peanut Institute: "A healthy eating pattern … emphasizes nutrient-dense foods – vegetables, fruits, whole grains, fat-free or low-fat milk products, seafood, lean meats and poultry, eggs, beans and peas, and nuts and seeds."

The United States Potato Board: "Get more potassium in your diet.  Food sources of potassium include potatoes, cantaloupe, bananas, beans and yogurt."

 
Slade Gorton & Co.: "The new federal guidelines will increase demand for seafood as the report points out in no uncertain terms the nutritional and health benefits of consuming more fish as part of a regular diet."

National Dairy Council: "Overall, the new Guidelines emphasizes a total diet approach, urging Americans to reduce calories and watch portion sizes; make more nutrient-rich choices, such as fruits, vegetables, whole grains and low-fat or fat-free milk and milk products; and move more."

ConAgra Foods: "We consider our broad portfolio of health and wellness brands, such as Healthy Choice, Hunt’s® and Orville Redenbacher’s® SmartPop! ®, to be a competitive advantage for ConAgra Foods and will continue focusing on delivering the great-tasting, nutritious foods consumers want."

Cargill: "Helping customers leverage regulatory requirements and shifting consumer preferences, Cargill has introduced a range of ingredients to help reduce calories, saturated fat and sodium." These include: Truvia™, CitriTex® GSG 71, SaltWise®, Premier™ potassium chloride and Premier™ light salt, Alberger®, Clear Valley® omega-3 oil and Clear Valley™ omega-3 shortening, Honeysuckle White®, CoroWise™, Oliggo-Fiber®, Barliv™, ActiStar®, GrainWise®, WheatSelect® , MaizeWise®, Sterling Silver®, Sunny Fresh®

Soyfoods Association of North America: "The recommendations include increasing the intake of soy products and fortified soy beverages.  Vegetarian and vegan meal patterns, that include soyfoods, also make their Dietary Guidelines debut as adaptations to the USDA Food Patterns."

The Quaker Oats Company: "The Dietary Guidelines state, 'consume at least half of all grains as whole grains.'"

Welch's: "Americans are in luck thanks to Welch's 100% Grape Juice, which is made with over 20 Concord grapes per 4-ounce glass and provides one serving (or 1/2 cup) of fruit and beneficial nutrients, helping consumers to meet daily fruit recommendations and nutrition goals while also meeting their desires for delicious taste and refreshment."

The National Pork Board: "Pork, in particular, is a lean, low-calorie, nutrient-rich protein which can help with weight control. In fact, recent studies show eating lean meats such as pork can lead to weight loss by reducing hunger sensations, helping people feel full and preserving lean muscle mass."

National Fisheries Institute: "The Dietary Guidelines specifically clear up persistent consumer confusion by saying pregnant and breastfeeding women should eat at least 8 and up to 12 ounces (two to three servings) of seafood each week to boost babies' brain and eye development."

National Cattlemen’s Beef Association: "The good news is the nutrient-rich beef already enjoyed by more than 95 percent of Americans will help them meet these new Guidelines. A 3 oz serving of lean beef provides 10 nutrients your body needs such as protein, iron, zinc and B-vitamins for an average of 154 calories."

Boar's Head: "At Boar's Head, we recognize the important role sodium plays in one's diet and we support the USDA's recommendation for reduced sodium intake…That's why we offer an extensive portfolio of great tasting lower sodium deli meats and cheeses."

Campbell Soup Company: "Studies show drinking V8® 100% vegetable juice may be a simple way for people to increase their vegetable intake and may help them manage their weight — two areas of concern outlined in the newly released 2010 U.S. Dietary Guidelines for Americans."

General Mills: "2010 Dietary Guidelines for Americans Recommends Increasing Daily Vegetable Intake; Green Giant Is a Good Pick Offering Variety and Convenience"

Weight Watchers International, Inc.: "In line with the philosophy that drove the new Dietary Guidelines, Weight Watchers developed its new PointsPlus program with the newest nutrition science in mind, including and consistent with the science supporting the new Dietary Guidelines for Americans."

Redneck food pyramid apron from LA Imprints

 

Chain Links: Schmaltz-and-Seltzer-Free

Kosher_symbols^1 Bringing Jewish deli fare to an Islamic country is a little offbeat, sure. Brooklyn Diner will be opening in Dubai minus pork products and with a few naming tweaks. I survived a rib-less Malaysian Chili’s, but I must admit that calling Kosher salt Sicilian sea salt instead is a bit much. [Insatiable Critic via Eater NY]

Perhaps one should reserve such criticism in Kuwait. A Lebanese food blogger is being sued by Benihana for an unfavorable review that’s fairly mild by Yelp standards. [The National]

In more Midtown to Asia translations, Le Cirque will be expanding to New Delhi. [NYP]

It doesn’t seem odd that McDonald’s has permeated the world, but Wendy’s feels so domestic. Maybe it’s the mascot’s red pig-tails and freckles. Will Argentines embrace Wendy’s? [press release]

Carl’s Jr., on the other hand, seems perfectly suitable for an international audience. Maybe it’s just because I’ve been to the insanely popular one in Singapore twice. Now, the UK will be able to experience one-foot long burgers. [eat out]

Jamba Juice is coming to South Korea’s Incheon International Airport. [QSR]

Picnic Garden

H Mart—at least the brand new one in Edison, New Jersey that anchors a sprouted-up strip mall—is the grocery store of my dreams. I would swap it for Fairway without a second thought. We have one of these Korean supermarkets in Flushing, but as with so much of New York City, businesses become larger, cleaner, brighter, better stocked and more amenable the farther you get from the city’s center, like a pond ripple showing suburbia’s finest at the outer rings.

I’ve never seen a supermarket with so many free samples (and we’d just come from Costco—I don’t know where they’ve gotten the reputation for being sample-centric—in my experience if you see one lady handing out apple pieces, it’s a good day), an entire entourage of tables along the perimeter of the produce section offered tastes of miso soup, roasted sweet potatoes and more.

Upon entering, to your left you’ll see a food court with a vendor, Kono, not Kyedong, selling fried chicken, pork belly and blood sausage, and at the edge is a small platform featuring a lone microphone that apparently can be commandeered by anyone shopping or eating to sing pop songs and ballads. On the right is a tray-and-tongs bakery, Tous Les Jours, that was fairly decimated around 6pm. What most caught my eye when walking in the door was the sign reading no photography (as well as the two teens with Jesus signs strumming guitars and singing on the sidewalk). It only implied what I was feeling, that this was no mere grocery store but an attraction that had already drawn enough snap-happy to the annoy of the management.

So, no photos of the take-out by the pound tables including marinated meats destined for the grill, refrigerated walls of kimchi, pickles and preserves, the pristine fish section with everything clearly marked and ordering instructions. And now I know where to buy a variety of fish heads, a problem I encountered when trying to reproduce Singaporean fish head curry. Most shocking, considering the store is primarily Korean with a few nods the rest of Asia, was seeing fresh galangal. I’ve always relied on a mushy knob I keep in the freezer and slice off as needed for Thai curry pastes.

Picnic grill exterior

H Mart is flanked by two restaurants, a tofu house and Picnic Garden, an all-you-can-grill Korean bbq joint that also has a branch in Flushing. The interior is larger than it appears from the outside with three separate seating areas—each table with an individual grill, of course—and a central buffet that houses rice, a few side dishes and a selection of marinated meats to be taken back to your seat.

Picnic garden first round

I was initially confused by the process—it’s not leisurely or solitary. If you come back to your table with a small plate of food intended to feed just yourself, to cook on your own, you would be wrong. As soon as a head-setted staffer sees meat at your table, they come by, toss it on the grill and begin snipping it into bite-sized pieces. They might come back in a few minutes and turn everything over.

Picnic garden plate of meat

Third round

I finally got into the groove. You’re supposed to bring back a big plate teaming with meat for the entire table (in my case, just two of us) it all cooks up at once and then you dip in chile paste, wrap with lettuce and eat. Another round means a swapped out grill and you start the process again (I would hate to be the grill-scrubber at the end of the night—on the way to the bathroom I saw an enormous wheeled plastic tub filled with the dirty once-used metal grates).

Picnic garden grill
The selection is more than sufficient but not huge. For non-grillable items there were kimbap, octopus legs, noodles, tempura vegetables, fried chicken, ribs, whole grilled fish, romaine chunks with chile-flecked dressing and a few more things that I’m forgetting. For meats they had shrimp, pork belly, pork ribs, kalbi, bulgogi beef, chicken, sausages—no organ meats or soondae. Dessert is a plate of oranges.

Picnic grill buffet

Picnic grill interior

It’s fun, you do get your $27 worth (the dinner price on weekends–$15 during the week sounds like a bargain). I only wish they had beer instead of barley tea. Maybe alcohol would just induce lingering?

Picnic Garden * 1763 Route 27, Edison, NJ

Me & My Egg Roll

Earlier this week I spied a shocking development on the corner of Court and 2nd. I’m surprised I noticed it at all because normally during my home-to-subway walk I’m zombified but speedy (more 28 Days Later  than Walking Dead) rarely noticing anything in my path. There was no doubt about this, though. Even I could see that Me & My Egg Roll, the Chinese takeout place with the best name for miles, had not only re-opened its permanently gate-down, lights-out dining room, but was now advertising Vietnamese sandwiches and bubble tea on a crisp new awning.

Me & my egg roll awning

When I moved to Carroll Gardens (last week I realized I’m one-month shy of seven years, far longer than I’ve lived in any one place in my adult life. No wonder I’ve become so burnt out on the neighborhood despite the fondness everyone else in the city seems to have for it) I never would’ve anticipated a banh mi shop appearing around the corner. I’d given up on convenient tacos (do not try convincing me that Calexico and Oaxaca serve real Mexican food) and Vietnamese sandwiches after leaving Sunset Park in 2004.

Better late than never. And just because I declared a banh mi ban in 2009, doesn’t mean that I’m not happy to finally have the beloved sandwich being made four blocks from my apartment. Luckily, this work-from-home snow day coincided with their opening, so I could pop over during my lunch break.

Me & my egg roll interior

I can’t say if they’ve redecorated the dining room filled with about eight-to-ten four-seaters because I never got a good look at the dim space before (I’m fairly certain that when I did first move here, you could still dine-in).The room is utilitarian with recessed ceiling emanting colorful glowing light and a few pendant lamps for good measure, but not dreary like sitting in the one or two plastic booths you might find at your corner takeout spot. A twosome who appeared to be a middle-aged son and mother were sipping coffees (the woman asked the man if my bubble tea was a smoothie, which reminded jaded me that decade-old Taiwanese trends aren’t a part of everyone’s word) out of paper cups, a younger man was eating in and waiting a bit for his food like I was and a lot of passerbys stopped to peek inside.

You can order from the Me & My Egg Roll menu (I’ll admit that when I’m in the mood for Chinese-American takeout I choose Wing Hua because they’re the only ones who serve crab rangoon) or the new one, which devotes most space to drinks—37 of them—five sandwiches and three resolutely American salads.

Me & my egg roll banh mi

Banh mi are $5 apiece, which is fair (you don’t want me to tell you about how they were only $1.50 in Portland a million years ago again, do you?) and falls between Chinatown and contemporary Vietnamese in Manhattan pricing.

Me & my egg roll house special The house special was good for an opening day sandwich. One of the staffers admitted that they were still getting it right. Most of the components were there: lunchmeats, cucumbers, pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro, ground and bbq pork, mayonnaise… but the balance skewed a little sweet, maybe from a sugary pickling liquid and thickly sliced char siu. What it lacked was chiles and the pate, both mentioned on the menu. A little heat and creaminess would’ve added more dimension. Sriricha is always on my shelf, so that was easily rectified. The bread was fresh and pliable with a little chew, though not particularly crackly. Given the neighborhood, it’s probably Italian bread, not a traditional French baguette.

I realized the taro bubble tea was a mistake after I got out the door. The mauve beverage filled with brown orbs draws attention. Also, I needed my arms for balance while trudging through slippery piles of slush and navigating single-file paths carved out of feet of snow (not easy with the amount of dog and stroller traffic in the area—I really don’t enjoy playing chicken with strangers in the slush).

Me & my egg roll bubble tea

I tried squeezing past two boys, shovelers for hire, and one turned to ask me something. Oh no, I read enough police blotters to know that kids are always punching people and snatching their iPhones (I’m more concerned that they’ll discover that I only have a Cliq XT and punch me harder because it’s such a piece of shit phone).

“Where did you get that drink?” he said.

Oh, right, everyone’s into food these days. “Um, at the Chinese place down the street, Me and My Egg Roll,” I replied.

“So, it’s like a milkshake?” he asked.

“Yeah, I like it,” I said and then wondered why I said I like it instead of answering the question. I guess bubble tea is like a milkshake. Did he really need me to go on about Taiwanese tea being co-opted by Vietnamese and now sold by Chinese in Brooklyn? No, that deserves a punch.

Now I wonder if the kids who have been known to eat monochromatic fried combo meals from Styrofoam containers (and get into altercations with the staff) while gathered outside Me & My Egg Roll’s takeout door, will start asking for milkshakes.

Me & My Egg Roll * 407 Court St., Brooklyn, NY

 

Scarfing Done Well

Mcd scarf

Yum! Brands may be kicking McDonald’s ass in China (as well as its own brands here in the US) but you certainly won’t find a KFC University in Shanghai. So…take that, Colonel Sanders.

Bloomberg gets a look inside of McDonald’s Hamburger University in China, a week-long program that is so selective that you may as well give up and try Harvard instead. The video is worth watching to learn about something important that Susanna Li calls the “people pipeline,” which only makes me think about burgers being people, and to see lucky attendee, Zhou Xiaobu who’s wearing a silky, yellow McDonald’s logo’d scarf that’s kind of cute. Almost cute enough to change my mind about the way certain sects of young people wear scarves with t-shirts and other warm weather attire.

Chain Links: Catering to Local Palettes

Palettes Every few months someone creates a new McDonald’s international food round-up. Can fast food gazpacho shock us anymore? Probably not, but I’ll link to it–even though they’ve managed to engage in some serious palate abuse in their URL. [Business Insider]

With the amount of Korean fried chicken chains we’ve received (and I’ve covered) it’s only right that we bombard South Korea with burgers. McDonald’s will be doing their part by doubling their locations. [QSRweb]

Cheesecake Factory will finally be freed of its US confines. The Middle East, a favorite recipient of American chains, will be seeing 22 shops in the next five years. [Nation’s Restaurant News]

Bulgaria is not a country I ever give thought to one way or the other (the only Bulgarian I know is the coffee guy near my office who blurs the line between sexual harassment and ESL charm) but Domino’s has been thinking about it. "The people of Bulgaria will now get to experience the high level of service and quality pizza that customers worldwide enjoy,” says future franchisee, Lazgin Majid. [QSR]

Elevation Burger will be breaking ground in Bahrain. [FastCasual]

Yum! Brands is going gangbusters in China. Sales in China were up 20% year over year in Q3 2010 and down here 8%. [CNNMoney]

Image: Martine's Chocolates

Go Figure: Ladies Love to Bake

Wilton Cooking Channel’s FoodCrafters would have you thinking that the nation is one big Brooklyn with everyone—even dudes—smoking, pickling, distilling or growing.

Not so, finds a Wilton survey. “Food crafting…is the number one hobby for women” and gets broken into baking, decorating and celebrating. No charcuterie or even jam-making in sight (yes, Wilton is a cake pan company). Cake is the most popular celebration dessert (49%), icing is the most popular decorating ingredient (94%), the 21-34 age range a.k.a. moms bake the most (31%) and the midwest and southeast tie for most frequent baking (29%).

CathyChildless women (which I take to mean females with grown children) are most likely to bake from scratch (43%). Scratch bakers in general (38%) are almost neck-and-neck with Sandra Lee acolytes (37%). I’m not sure where Hungry Girl fits into all of this—is using hot cocoa mix, fat-free liquid egg substitute and Splenda to make muffins cooking from scratch, doctoring or something else altogether?