Posts from the ‘Manhattan’ Category

May 31

Montien

I don't know why it took us so long to try this place since I'm a big Thai
fan and it's only a block from James's apt. I've always been scared off by
that row of restaurants along the west side of Third Ave. between 12th and
13th (the only one I've ever tried, Rochjin, just went out of business after
mere months–that space is cursed). It also seemed mildly peculiar that they
have a bar and do a brunch. The assorted appetizer plate was a bit bland, it
looked large and enticing, but flavor was lacking, dipping sauces would've
been a definite plus. But the entrees weren't half bad. The prices were
perhaps a dollar or two more than at competing places, but not completely
outrageous. They're definitely aspiring to more than mere take-out: the
presentation is artfully arranged on large square plates, sprigs of things
sticking out saying take me seriously. Unorthodox items like massaman
avocado show up as a special. We stuck to the familiar and tried a red curry
and a shrimp, ground chicken and basil dish that weren't half-bad. (5/31/02)

I guess we must like Montien since we've been back again in less than a
month. This time: addictive fried squid with sweet chili sauce, panang curry
with pork, and basil chicken. We asked for spice and we got it. It was good
at the time, but was my stomach was feeling it the next day. (6/21/02)

Montien* 90 Third Ave., New York, NY

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May 23

Nyonya

1/2

I've only ever eaten at the Nyonya in Chinatown where the service has that
odd Asian curtness (like the waitress telling my sister and her friend
visiting from England they couldn't have two orders of the same stuffed
tofu. "Too much food," "order another one if you're still hungry.") Being in
Brooklyn, perhaps the Sunset Park branch would be more relaxed. It was
Chinatown bustling at 10pm on a weeknight, but not harried.

We ordered the requisite roti canai, then a smoky char kway teow and
house special shrimp, which were mammoth and in a totally rich, almost black
sauce, heavy on the shrimp paste, which I love. After toasting shrimp paste
for a homemade curry, James declared I'd finally achieved that Asian store
smell in the privacy of my own apt. Yeah, it's pungent, but it always
bothers me how cookbooks will substitute anchovy paste instead…and ginger
for galangal. Bah. I got my Malaysian fix without a hitch. The only dilemma
is squelching my perpetual laksa craving in favor of food that can be
shared. I prefer variety, and laksa will plain fill you up. Maybe the
gluttonous solution would be to get the laksa to go? Coconut milk overdose
all around.

Nyonya* 5323 Eighth Ave., Brooklyn, NY

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May 17

John’s

Ack, red sauce. I'm weird about Italian-American food, but every now and
then I'll concede. Plus, it was a rainy, lazy Friday night and John's is
mere blocks from James's.

With a few of the specials it appeared the chef was attempting to branch
out in odd ways. The bruschetta used guacamole as a base (and was
surprisingly good) and a miso halibut was also offered (didn't take the
bait). The trouble with avoiding red sauce, is that you're generally faced
with lots of white, creamy and fatty alternatives (which I like a little too
much). Regardless, I went the high calorie route. The chicken stuffed with
cheese in a sauce of champagne-glazed mushrooms was downright tasty. I
intended to eat half and save the rest to give my arteries a break, but darn
it if I didn't down the whole portion.

John's Restaurant * 302 E. 12th St., New York, NY

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May 12

BB Sandwich Bar

I knew the big deal was the cheesesteaks, and that's what I went for. What I
didn't quite realize was that that's the only item they serve. The
whole experience is mildly disorienting at first. It's unclear if you're
entering the right establishment, as the door is inside a hallway, reggae
music was playing and no signs or menus were anywhere in sight. Though the
front of the building proclaims BB Sandwich Bar, I feared I'd stepped into a
Jamaican pattie joint. "We only have the cheesesteaks sandwich" proclaimed
the quiet Eastern European counter woman. Well, good enough, that's what
we'd come for anyway. I love the absurdity. I thought Hero's Sweet Potatoes
was single-minded (I know they do Korean food now), but this took the cake.

The sandwiches are prepared in batches so ours were ready to go. They
are not traditional, nor claim to be, though I wouldn't deem them overly
foofy either. The deal breaker for many would be the substitution of kaiser
roll for Italian bread. That doesn't bother me, but I am sort of a purist
where the cheese whiz is concerned. They cram a good portion of meat topped
with caramelized onions, spicy pepper relish and scant provolone. That's my
only beef–more cheese taste. I mean, cheese is in the name, right? Of
course that didn't stop me from quickly devouring their cheesesteak and
contemplating a second. Too bad they're not open late Sat. nights, I could
really go for one now.

BB Sandwich Bar * 120 W. Third St., New York, NY

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May 6

Franklin Station Cafe

1/2

I've always wondered what Tribeca French-Malaysian would be like, and now
that I've sampled some I'm still not too sure. Granted, I went for
breakfast, not the most representative meal of the day. The place offers
legitimate Malaysian dishes like laksa, rendang and satay along side roasted
turkey and tuna salad sandwiches. It's not fusion, and based upon the
seemingly Malaysian and French duo working behind the counter, appears to be
a friendship arrangement. Unfortunately, I can only comment on the
unadventurous ham and cheese omelet I ate. Boring, I know, but it didn't
seem right to risk congee in a non-Chinese establishment.

Franklin Station
Cafe * 222 W. Broadway, New York,NY

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Apr 13

Pipa

Restaurants housed in stores can be scary like Little Caesars in K Mart, but of course, ABC Carpet and Home is no blue light special. Though after facing a sold out showing of "Y Tu Mama Tambien," tapas, across the street, seemed like a good second choice.

It was Saturday night, there was a long wait, the Gipsy Kings were blaring, but by the end of the evening, I was happy as a clam (or maybe that was the giant pitcher of sangria taking effect). We ordered way more food than we should've: shrimp and crab-stuffed piquillo peppers, shrimp in garlicky olive oil, a hearty salad with machengo, Serrano ham and the sweetest-ever sun-dried tomatoes and a dish called "lamb rice" filled with olives, figs, more of those tomatoes, topped with little lamb chops.

Though I didn't see the bill, I have the feeling Pipa is one of those places where little things quickly add up. Tapas have that way of sneaking up on your pocketbook.

Pipa* 38 E 19th St., New York, NY

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Mar 28

Rochjin

Rochjin means fishball in Thai and last I heard, fishballs were their
specialty. Were is the word here. They didn't have them the night I stopped
in, and I'm under the impression they may have been removed from the menu
permanently.
Regardless, the staff was very eager and helpful, explaining dishes in
detail and apologetic as to the unavailability of the yellowtail snapper
(hence the fishball problem). The food, however, isn't typical pad Thai
joint Thai. It's not fancy fusion Thai either. It's vitrine-topped table,
Frank Sinatra playing Thai. Dishes with names like Chili on the Pond and Taj
Mahal lovers abound.
They're definitely aspiring to something. Hopefully, the past won't be an
indicator–the previous shop selling durian ice cream and pork buns only
lasted about six months. (3/28/02)
*Poor Rochjin. They can now be added to the list of goners. They've been
closed for at least three months now–I don't think they even made it to the
six month mark. (10/2/02)

Rochjin Asian Noodle * 92 Third Ave., New York, NY

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Feb 17

Triple 8

Pretty much banquet-sized room dim sum. Not sublime, but satisfying. I'm not
one of those finicky, stickler types. My only complaint: no turnip cakes.

Triple Eight Palace * 88 E. Broadway, New York, NY

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Jan 25

Chevy’s

1/2

It's not always easy simulating a suburban experience in Times Square, but
Chevy's comes the closest. Dinner and a movie in a multi-plex minus the
usual parking lot milieu. Just don't look out the windows or pop into the
Port Authority bar or arcade or the mirage will be ruined. Don't consult the
online menu before going or you'll just be saddened by the jacked-up midtown
prices. Hey, paradise don't come cheap.

Chevy's * 259 W 42nd St., New
York, NY

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Jan 18

America

Closed: I'm surprised it took this long for American to wither away.
(6/6/05)

Is this vast, oddly-muraled, noisy space for tourists? Parties? Groups?
Kids? Me? I'm not sure the target audience. America strikes me as one of
those places that may have been big before my time. No, not like the '60s,
I'm talking mid-90s.

The 50 states are represented by the obvious like crab cakes (Maryland)
or the invented warm duck salad with soba, watercress and toasted macadamia
nuts (uh, Hawaii). Sometimes they push it a bit. The portions are large, the
prices aren't completely unreasonable and the food is pleasingly mediocre
(not bad, just middling).

My main beef with places like this (Mars 2112 is another in this
category) is their use of the carrot, broccoli and zucchini vegetable
medley, which could only come out of a frozen bag. It's like my mom's in the
kitchen–and speaking of mom, America is exactly where I'd take an
unadventurous visiting parent.

America * 9 E.18th St., New York, NY

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Posts from the ‘Manhattan’ Category

Montien

Nyonya

John’s

BB Sandwich Bar

Franklin Station Cafe

Pipa

Rochjin

Triple 8

Chevy’s

America

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