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Ack, red sauce. I'm weird about Italian-American food, but every now and
then I'll concede. Plus, it was a rainy, lazy Friday night and John's is
mere blocks from James's.

With a few of the specials it appeared the chef was attempting to branch
out in odd ways. The bruschetta used guacamole as a base (and was
surprisingly good) and a miso halibut was also offered (didn't take the
bait). The trouble with avoiding red sauce, is that you're generally faced
with lots of white, creamy and fatty alternatives (which I like a little too
much). Regardless, I went the high calorie route. The chicken stuffed with
cheese in a sauce of champagne-glazed mushrooms was downright tasty. I
intended to eat half and save the rest to give my arteries a break, but darn
it if I didn't down the whole portion.

John's Restaurant * 302 E. 12th St., New York, NY

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