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Un-American Anthems

McDonald’s: Foreign food doesn’t mean anything anymore. Fusion is a passing fancy. The final frontier clearly lies in interpretations of American classics via chain restaurants in far (and not so far) flung locales. Evil corporations are no more than sources of bemusement to me. McDonald’s is the devil, you say? Aw well, at least they’re imaginative when it comes to marketing. I love regional additions to de rigeur menus. Even in the United States, items like lobster rolls show up in New England and bratwurst sandwiches around the midwest. But leave the country and, oh boy.

Argentina serves croquetas de aceiga, swiss chard nuggets. India, not surprisingly, has an entire vegetarian menu including eggless mayonnaise, and a Maharaja MacTM made with lamb. Every culture’s got their McDonald’s burger: Koreans have a bulgogi version and the Turkish a köfte rendition.

I can only imagine what goes on in a French McDonald’s. In ‘89 I was a summer exchange student and the annoying grandma (as opposed to the rich, barely tolerable grandma who always had lots of good food around the house) kept going on about something that sounded like Macdough. Even with four years of high school level French under my belt I was a bit of a retard. I finally figured out she wanted to take me to McDonald’s because I was American, of course, and I think she was using a slangy abbreviation like McDo. Eventually we ended up at some fast food place, not a McDonald’s, but it was all the same to her like how people call all brands of tissue Kleenex. I think there may have been hard-boiled egg on my burger, but my mind could be playing tricks on me.

Pizza Hut: I never knew Hawaiian pizza was a regional phenomenon until I realized it’s nearly nonexistent here in NYC, even at chains like Pizza Hut and Dominos where I’d expect it, and asking for it could cut your life short. Little did I know that ham and pineapple blasphemy was mere child’s play. Oh my god, Pizza Hut Singapore warms the cockles of my heart. Unfortunately this highlighted Christmas Pizza won’t be around much longer, but let me describe: bell peppers, chicken, ham, pineapple rings, cherries, almond flakes and sausage hidden in the crust. I was already obsessed with Singapore and now I’m totally in love. I knew cheese stuffed crust was nothing new–we have/had Stuffed Crust Gold–but sausage crammed in there as well?! Out of control. Sweet Jesus, I see Singapore’s now doing a “Double Edge” crust. And who says the Japanese are the innovators on that continent? Personal favorites Pineapple and chiles, predominate pizza in these parts. Leave it to Pizza Hut Thailand to up the ante with the addition of Thousand Island dressing.

If you’re unfamiliar with Japanese pizza, you might enjoy this primer. Japanese Pizza Hut kicks ass in its own way. Pay close attention to the Idaho Special. That’s right, it makes use of potatoes and mayo. Corn also appears to be a baffling yet important topping.

Mayonnaise? And speaking of mayonnaise, I hear they’re crazy for it over there. Supposedly, young Japanese have gone so mad for mayonnaise that the term mayora has been invented to describe these sick souls. In fact, there’s an entire restaurant, named Mayonnaise Kitchen, duh, devoted to the emulsified gunk.

Mayo has always scared the crap out of me. For years I’d covertly wipe it off burgers and sandwiches with napkins, but I’ve been learning to deal as I’ve grown older. When I think of mayonnaise, I imagine Shaggy, this girl who lived in the cul de sac (freaks always live in cul de sacs, don’t they?) where I grew up, who’d eat mayonnaise out of a bowl with a spoon (the neighbor kids two doors down ate raw potatoes like apples, so she wasn’t the only oddity). I will admit I’m simultaneously fond of/repulsed by that Chinese dish of prawns with candied walnuts and mayonnaise, but that’s an exception and I can’t think about it too hard while eating.

Cafe du Monde: I laugh every single time I visit Cafe du Monde’s Japanese site that includes “New Orleans-style Hot Dog With Voluminous and Choice Ingredients.” You know those great Lettuce Dogs they serve in the Big Easy. The original Cafe du Monde sells no more than coffee and beignets, but who can blame the Japanese for taking a good thing even further.

As an aside, I can’t quite figure out the Cafe du Monde Vietnamese connection. You often see cans of the chicory coffee in Vietnamese cafes (and amusingly used as parts of makeshift shrines). And during a recent trip to New Orleans, it seemed that about 90% of the waitstaff were Vietnamese. What gives? Is it a twisted Francophile fondness?

Foreign Concepts

I’m distrustful of men who dig Asian stuff. Anime, manga whatever…you know they’re really just hot for Asian chicks. Well, no yellow fever here, I’m all about the peculiar charm of anthropomorphic characters, ad copy turning poetically earnest in translation and the twisted things foreigners do to good ol’ fashioned American cooking. Of course, I’m open to quirks of all cultures, but Asians seem to have the corner on the market.

You might find it surprising that I love Engrish, considering my usual low tolerance for ESL, but massacring the English language occurs in varying degrees. People abusing apostrophes and quotes as in: Juicy Apple’s For “Sale” makes my bones hurt. Seeing a fruit cart advertising Orinjs instead of Oranges or a middle aged Hispanic woman obliviously wearing a tee shirt reading “Me So Horny” makes me smile a little. But “The Art of Hot. Side by Side, I’ll be yours forever. Because please don’t weep.” printed on the side of a styrofoam cup is smile-inducing on another level.

Mooncake Foods

Nice as can be, fun food, good prices…oddball location. I'd been meaning
to try Mooncake Foods for some time, but I'm just not ever in that weirdo
area above Tribeca, right near the Holland Tunnel. But it occurred to me
when I was trying to think of somewhere to eat that was walking distance to
M1-5 where I had to go for this Sweet
Action
party. I don't know…hipsters and what passes for porn these
days. The food was definitely sexier than the party. The Thai beef salad,
spicy wings and summer rolls I tried were all perfectly tasty-it's the kind
of food I'd be inclined to grab on the way home from work. But seeing as how
I live in Brooklyn, that's not going to happen. I guess what I'm saying is
that Mooncake Foods isn't necessarily someplace you'd go out of your way
for, but if you were ten blocks in either direction it'd be a must-do.


Mooncake Foods28 Watts St., New York, NY

La Rosa and Son

1/2 I don't care what anyone says, this is the best pizza I've had in the area (whatever the heck you want to call that area…Cobble Hill? Boerum Hill? Carroll Gardens North?). For such a scary Italian-American neighborhood, they don't do so well with the pizza. But La Rosa? They're alright. The staff is friendly and the wine is cheap (it even says so on the menu). (4/31/04)

Not bad, not bad at all. Maybe I've grown overly skeptical over new neighborhood restaurants. I don't know what it is with areas where professionals and families congregate begetting mediocre eats. La Rosa and Son has that readymade, built new to look old vibe, but compared to the blah pizza churned out at practically every legitimate old school Italian-American joint in the immediate region (and believe you me, there's more than plenty), I'm not complaining. Purists might say the pies are a little heavy on the cheese, but I'm no stickler, having grown up on the west coast loving gooey Hawaiian toppings (you could get killed trying to order ham and pineapple here). (5/21/04)

La Rosa and Son * 98 Smith St., Brooklyn, NY

Golden Arches

Costcutters_1  Hey, there's more to Elizabeth than Ikea. On the way to Trader Joe's in New Jersey, we'd always pass this golden arch that had nothing to do with McDonald's and wonder what treasures might lie within. Now I know. Cost Cutters is like a giant, independent drug store with a dash of Odd Job thrown in, housed in a '60s storefront.

All of your toiletry, snack food and Rubbermaid staples are covered. Cost Cutters epitomizes the concept of notions–it does put ideas in your head. Most of the products are average priced, but there are random doozies like super cheap Stewart's soda (I don't even drink soda but was seduced by a key lime four-pack) and weirdo brands I thought were long defunct. Who knew Aziza still made eye shadow? I wouldn't say Cost Cutters is worth going out of your way for, but if you ever find yourself on Elmora Ave., do stop in. Make an afternoon out of it–go wild afterwards and eat a sack of slyders at the White Castle up the block. They post seating time limits on the wall, but don't let that deter you.

Cost Cutters * 190 Elmora Ave., Elizabeth, NJ

Wogie’s

New York City isn't a cheesesteak kind of town. They always want to spruce
things up, sometimes ruining items that are best in their basest forms. A
proper cheesesteak comes with cheese whiz (and onions, if you ask me). "Wiz
wit," you know? And so Wogies' sandwich did. The buffalo wings were a nice
balance of heat (quite heaty) and buttery richness. Let's not think about
our cholesterol for a moment, alright? The place is a little sports bar-ish
and odd for the area, but it's worth trying if you're into unhealthy
delicacies. I would rate it higher than the other newish Philly place,
Carl's.


Wogies 39 Greenwich Ave., New
York, NY

Deep-fried Mars Bars

When I first heard about this scary Scottish treat a few years ago, I was hesitant yet curious. (Then I heard about the Scottish deep-frying pizza and decided they’re mad geniuses.)

Recently, these coated candy bars have gained minor popularity–-they’re even served at the Chip Shop near my apartment. They’ve fancied theirs up, plating them drizzled with raspberry sauce and sprinkled powdered sugar. In fact Chip Shop’s gone as far as including deep-fried Twixs, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and Twinkies (good, but the cake shrinks into near nothingness), among others. I even saw Nigella Lawson deep-fying Bounty bars with pineapple on the side the other night. I was wowed.

One could deep-fry any sweet, for sure, this recipe is only a base. Any fish batter would work as well, but some people like things spelled out.

4 Milky Ways (which is the same as a UK Mars Bar)
1 cup flour
1/2 cup cornstarch
Pinch of baking soda
Milk or beer
Oil for frying

Chill the candy. Meanwhile, mix the flour, cornstarch and baking soda. Add your chosen liquid until you have pancake batter consistency. Heat oil to around 365 degrees, same as if you were making french fries (yes, I know purists fry fries twice at two different temperatures). Dip the candy in the batter, then fry away. The coating should turn golden brown, give it a couple minutes.

Serves 4 good sports or 8 pantywaists

Invite

Ok, I’ve since gone nuts with this theme. A few years back, I bought James a deep fryer as a gut-busting birthday gift. Up until recently, it had primarily been put to savory uses. But after moving in together, I thought a housewarming parting was in order. And what better way to warm a house than with piping hot oil?

The idea of a B.Y.O.C. Party was born. Everyone was encouraged to bring their own candy to be deep-fried, and bring they did. The massive pile of Oreos, Twinkies, Mallomars, Almond Joys, Cadbury Eggs, Reese’s and assorted sweet treats was unofficially dubbed “Deep-Fried Candy Mountain” (if such a locale actually existed, I’d be packing my bags posthaste). It was beyond a bonanza.

The thing with fried candy is that you can’t eat a ton of it, and it’s not the speediest way to feed a group. Only a couple items can really be fried at once, so satiating twenty or so guests must be done in shifts. It worked out well, though, and everyone was able to put in requests for their fried goodie of choice. Good things come to those who wait.

So, the supply ended up being higher than demand. Our downstairs refrigerator (never mock a two-fridge household) still has crisper bins full of sugary souvenirs in their wrappers, and two months have passed since this unhealthy little experiment. I’m sure this problem will soon be rectified, since I’m a sweet tooth utterly lacking in self-control.

Frying
Scene of the crime

Friedtomatoes
Deep-fried cheese-stuffed tomatoes

Cadbury
Cadbury egg

Candymtn
Candy Mountain

Crisper
Raw leftovers

Vegetarian Dim Sum

1/2

You can eat well here for $20. And that's for three big-appetited adults. No
it's not as full of greasy, porky goodness as traditional dim sum, but it is
tasty and you don't feel so gross after over-ordering. I know baby-ish
carnivores that eat here because they claim Chinatown food is full of
gristle and weird unidentifiable bits. That's so not true. I mean, that's
only one step away from saying they cook stray cats and dogs (I'm not saying
they don't eat "pets" in Asia, but I don't think it's common NYC practice.
And if dog meat turned out to be the secret ingredient in yummy dim sum,
then I'd be all for it). Anyway, fill up on meat-free renditions of turnip
cakes, shrimp dumplings and pork buns and rest easy about the gnarly bits.


Vegetarian Dim Sum
House
* 24 Pell St., New York, NY

Delhi Gardens

*This is still an Indian restaurant, though I'm fairly certain that it's changed names (2007)

Though I don't do it all that frequently, I love the occasional trek out to New Jersey for a Trader Joes and kick-ass Hong Kong Supermarket run. And that's just the tip of the iceberg, every chain store known to man populates these parts. I shop, but I rarely eat. Not because I don't want to, I'm just not familiar with the terrain. So, I on my latest excursion we decided to rectify this by a pit stop at Delhi Gardens, a Hyderabadi restaurant I'd heard good things about.

I've been a little Indian shy since becoming crazy ill after eating at Mina a few months back. But there wasn't any trouble. With only two of us, we didn't really get to sample much of the menu, and maybe missed some hits. We started with vegetable samosas, a safe choice, but giant, flaky, very homemade and fresh. For mains we had chicken biryani since biryani is a Hyderabad thing. I'm not an expert on the rice dish, so I can't compare, but the layers of herbs and spices struck me. We also had lamb curry, rogan gosht, I think that was nicely hot. Indian cuisine is one that I honestly need to learn more about to speak knowledgeably. I'm like one of those annoying (to me) people who talks about Thai food and only ever eats pad thai and green curry. Or even worse, someone who raves about a restaurant, but is vegetarian. Nothing against vegetarians, but how can I trust the opinion of someone who hadn't even tried most of the things I would order?

Delhi Gardens * 691 Route 1, Edison, NJ

Sonny’s


* It's now Union Smith Cafe, and I'm still steering clear. (10/05)

Hideous, hideous, hideous. I'm so not on the Alan Harding bashing bandwagon. But this place just bothered me with its faux old-timey look, run-of-the-mill food and its filled to the rafters with precocious children and the free-thinking parents who made them that way. It's dining experiences like this that strain a relationship. James had a conniption after being seated between two tables crammed with kids, I wasn't any happier, but didn't feel like making an issue. One must be very, very careful when dining in Carroll Gardens. Eat too early and you're subject to a daycare atmosphere, but wait till 10pm and nothing is open.

Sonny's Bar and Grill * 305 Smith St., Brooklyn, NY