Posts from the ‘Indian/Pakistani’ Category

Apr 24

Delhi Gardens

*This is still an Indian restaurant, though I'm fairly certain that it's changed names (2007)

Though I don't do it all that frequently, I love the occasional trek out to New Jersey for a Trader Joes and kick-ass Hong Kong Supermarket run. And that's just the tip of the iceberg, every chain store known to man populates these parts. I shop, but I rarely eat. Not because I don't want to, I'm just not familiar with the terrain. So, I on my latest excursion we decided to rectify this by a pit stop at Delhi Gardens, a Hyderabadi restaurant I'd heard good things about.

I've been a little Indian shy since becoming crazy ill after eating at Mina a few months back. But there wasn't any trouble. With only two of us, we didn't really get to sample much of the menu, and maybe missed some hits. We started with vegetable samosas, a safe choice, but giant, flaky, very homemade and fresh. For mains we had chicken biryani since biryani is a Hyderabad thing. I'm not an expert on the rice dish, so I can't compare, but the layers of herbs and spices struck me. We also had lamb curry, rogan gosht, I think that was nicely hot. Indian cuisine is one that I honestly need to learn more about to speak knowledgeably. I'm like one of those annoying (to me) people who talks about Thai food and only ever eats pad thai and green curry. Or even worse, someone who raves about a restaurant, but is vegetarian. Nothing against vegetarians, but how can I trust the opinion of someone who hadn't even tried most of the things I would order?

Delhi Gardens * 691 Route 1, Edison, NJ

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Jan 31

Mina

* Well, that was short-lived. Apparently, the staff kept saying Mina had gone back to Bangladesh when really she was setting up shop at Angon in the E. Village. Mina is now shuttered due to months of rent non-payment and who knows what else. (8/20/04)

I threw up in my hat minutes after eating here, though I don't know that it was Mina's fault since I did have a pounding headache prior to entering the restaurant. But it's hard not to let the aftermath taint the dining experience. And what an experience it was. I'd heard how idiosyncratic a place this was, small staff, small kitchen, every dish different every time ordered, long waits for food, forgetful service, etc. The sort of quirks that tend to plague places revered by people in the know food-wise. I could deal. At least I thought so, but after almost an hour with no food and everyone around us antsy because they were also empty-tabled, I started to get nervous. And my stomach was starting to hurt, out of hunger I figured. And everything I tried ordering: a fish dopiaza, then a goat curry, not to mention anything made with eggplant, they were out of. I'm so easygoing when it comes to dining, particularly at the lower end of the price spectrum, I'm not going to bust anyone's balls over $6.95. But all the events would've driven a diner with average expectations bonkers. I honestly couldn't tell you what we ended up eating because by that point I was feeling very ill. There was some meat, some somosas and some rice. It's a blur. All I know is that by the time we made it the block to the car I felt sicker than I have ever felt in my life, no exaggerating. I've never been that sweaty, nauseous and consumed by severe head pain (and I'm used to migraines). This wasn't a migraine, it felt like a tumor was trying to free itself from my brain. So, yes, we made it all through back streets twisting from Woodside to Carroll Gardens (we had the darndest time finding the BQE) and made it to the industrial borderlands of Columbia St. before I lost my dinner (and probably my lunch). The amusing part (thought not at the time) was how earlier that week James told me he didn't like this particular winter hat, and I was like fuck that, I'm going to wear it more now just to spite you. But full of Indian-spiced spinach, there was no way that wooly barf bag was going back on my head. This wretched retching went on all night long. I was totally poisoned. But like I said, it couldn't have been from Mina because I was already starting to fade when we initially sat down. So, I don't want to write Mina off, but it might take me a little convincing for a return visit.

Mina * 48-11 43rd Ave., Sunnyside, NY

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Jan 9

Baluchi’s

1/2 *Smith St. Baluchi's has been closed. (5/06)

Nothing really need be said about Baluchi's (I always want to say Balducci's, which just reopened in a new location and I can't say I really care). It's no great shakes, but I had the urge for Indian delivery in the neighborhood and we only had one menu in the house, Bombay Dream, which is practically next door to Baluchi's. I knew the latter had a website, so I peeked at it for price comparison.

Everything was about a dollar more, but I was highly impressed and taken aback by their order online feature. I recall doing this once with Domino's a few years ago. Yes, novelty trumps taste on some occasions. I love being able to pick and point using pull down menus and clicks. No need for human interaction (I jest, but I do and have always had a pointless phobia about ordering food over the phone. In college, my sister would force me to phone-in pizza orders knowing I was loathe to do so and quite frequently I would flat out refuse, preferring hunger over having to make the call) and the ability to pay with a credit card.

We both did the prix fixe (so fancy) where you get an appetizer, entre, rice, naan, raita and chutney for $13.95, a bit more than I'd normally spend on take out, but it's cheaper than buying everything outright and it easily makes three meals. I had aloo fried, which are fried potato cubes with masala chat, and lamb saag. Nothing was totally hideous, at least the potatoes were crisp and not sogged, though the spinach was on the salty side. But for Wednesday night it was more than adequate. (12/14/05)

I thought the food was alright, though admittedly I'm no Indian food expert. I mean it wasn't completely heinous and inedible like everyone seems to say about NYC Indian (Bangladeshi, or whatever passes as Indian). The lamb vindaloo was surprisingly spicy and a nice respite from the single digit temperatures (both inside and out-the restaurant was beyond chilly) and the mixed tandoori grill was adequate, though sometimes the meats all blended together and were on the withered side. It's about what I would've expected from Smith St. Indian. No surprises, but it worked. (1/9/04)

Baluchi's* 263 Smith St., Brooklyn, NY

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Jan 31

Brick Lane Curry House

1/2

I think this non-sixth street style, sixth street Indian has potential, but
much of its charm was lost on a busy Friday night. The wait was double the
20 minutes quoted, pushy angry patrons filled the tiny bar area, and once we
finally got a table (and stupidly agreed to sit in the same cramped bar
area) a group of people leaving knocked our papadums and sauce on to the
floor. This was the first bit of food we'd received in almost an hour, so it
was irksome. Even more irksome was the way the staff gave us dirty looks and
acted put out in cleaning up the mess, as if we were the ones who'd
knocked the plate off the table.

The vindaloo and saag were perfectly acceptable, but the pissy waitstaff
and unpleasant patrons will likely keep me from returning.

Brick Lane Curry House * 342 E. Sixth St., New York, NY

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Nov 27

Shalimar

Not the old lady perfume (which I actually own) or the funky band (which I don’t). It’s Oregon’s, and quite possibly the world’s, freakiest Indian restaurant. Smack dab in the middle of nowheresville, this suburban raja’s palace gives one pause.

I’d never heard of Orenco Station till that very morning when I was skimming “Oregonian” ads and saw some whole foods store called New Seasons in a place called Orenco Station in Hillsboro. Moving out of Oregon four and a half years ago, I’d missed the boom years and subsequent housing developments in former outskirts now made accessible by new light rail lines.

Many factors played in this dining choice. The main one being my friend Todd’s curiosity after reading a review in “The Willamette Week” (disgustingly called “Willie Week” by a former coworker) coupled with my creepy fascination with sterile suburbs. Plus, it was minutes from my mom’s mobile home where I was staying. It played into my fantasy of visiting Portland without ever actually stepping foot in the city, as well as Todd’s of riding MAX to a planned community for dinner.

We made plans to meet up that evening at Orenco Station. The “community” is beyond bizarre. I think the original idea was to re-create a small-town, main street atmosphere with housing for various income levels, complete with dining, shopping, parks and a town square. Idyllic, no? Well, there is one main street, the one pictured on the webpage. And that’s it. There is a Kitchen Kaboodle, Starbucks, the aforementioned New Seasons, an Italian restaurant and Shalimar, all above pricey “hip kitchen lofts” that lord only knows who lives in. Identical ’40s-style “cottages” flank a long grassy
strip of land beyond the shopping area.

At 8pm the entire area was desolate. We feared getting beat up by merely standing in the gazebo after dark, and joked about being pegged for young lovers and subsequently harassed (he’s 40+ and gay). Such solitude breeds suspicion. Benches abound. No one would ever dare sit on them, though. The half-mile or so between the development and the train station is filled with driveways that end in grass and more aimless benches scattered throughout the sidewalks yet to used for foot traffic. There are no homes, just empty lots. Who on earth lives here?

Oh, but the food. The food is fine. Not remarkable, but better than to be expected in such a setting. Someone went wild with the menu descriptions. An Afghani lamb dish is inspired by “outlandish, free spirited farmers.” All right, they were talking to us!

Back to the neighborhood. As it turns out, the money ran out. All the empty space is not waiting to be filled, but at a perpetual stand still. The nearby tech jobs have dried up and the area is now a once affluent ghost town. So much for 1998’s “America’s Community of the Year.” God bless the Northwest. They try. If I were an eccentric billionaire I’d snatch up a place in Orenco Station just for shits and giggles.

Shalimar* 1340 Orenco Station, Hillsboro, OR

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Jul 6

Rajbhog Sweets

I absolutely love this stuff, but I don't know what any of it is called (at
least yet). Asian goodies totally rock, and I'm just beginning to delve into
Indian sweets like kulfi, burfi and other words that sound like bodily
functions. The colors draw me in, though the tastes I can't always place.
Rose water, cardamom, pistachio, coconut. Most are riffs on a basic building
block like halvah, sort of how Viet-Thai type desserts all seem to involve
coconut milk and rice with subtle variations. Further research must be done.
The gift-style boxes are a nice, old-fashioned candy counter touch.

Rajbhog Sweets * Jackson
Heights, New York

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Jul 6

Jackson Diner

This is one of those "they used to be good" places. But I wouldn't know that
first hand, as this was my first experience and I must confess
little-to-average knowledge of Indian cuisine. I'm not fussy about it, don't
know the nuances between regional styles and can't detect if Bangladeshis
are manning the kitchens, creating an inauthentic version. So, it was fine.
We tried typical fare like a mixed tandoori grill and lamb vindaloo. The
chutneys were much fresher and spicy than I was used to, the garlic naan was
top notch and the coconut-crusted chicken cutlets with mango chutney were a
nice break from pakoras and samosas. (7/6/02)

Due to off timing, I never seem to be able to take advantage of lunch
buffets. I'm sure that's for the best. But we got our act together this
Saturday and opted for the biggie, Jackson Diner, though there are probably
better choices. Crowded doesn't necessarily equal quality. And yes, it was
packed. There was a line just to get plates and start in.

This buffet had a little flair due to the cooked on demand dosa station, but
a majority of the set up was steam table style. Another table was filled
with condiments, little round chickpea fritters and a giant bowl of what
looked like square fried wontons. Choices included tandoori chicken, basmati
rice, naan, chicken curry, goat curry, a shrimp curry (yes, I'm using curry
generically–I'm unsure of the nuances) with whole hard boiled eggs (I'm
still not down with the Asian fascination with hard boiled eggs). There were
also vegetable dishes like palak paneer, a mixed curry, daal, and something
I'd never seen before, kadi pakora, which was the only dish that made me
kind of think.

The pale yellow color, sour and slightly sharp flavor and mystery main
ingredient reminded me of jackfruit curry I became enamored with a New Asha. As it turns
out the base is yogurt sauce and the pakora is well, a pakora, but chopped
up and mixed in. I had no idea. Kadi pakora is akin to samosa chat, which
is another confusing crisp/smooth mix that's way beyond fritters and dip,
but too thick to be a soup. I tend not to think of curries as yogurt based
because I have a S.E. Asian culinary bias (and a yogurt bias on top of that.
I often buy some little containers for lunch and they end up going bad in
the refrigerator because I never eat them), but that's really what this dish
is.

What a crazy thing. I'm trying to think of an equivalent, it's not like
dumplings in soup because those are doughy and this is crispy fried. It's
more like Chinese crullers going with congee, but both of those components
are kind of bland and these are contrary. Maybe the smooth/crunch contrast
is the appeal of kadi pakora. Or maybe I just like anything fried and fatty,
which I imagine this must be. (11/5/05)

Jackson Diner * 37-47 74th St., Jackson Heights, NewYork

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Jun 27

Tangra Masala

1/2

What's better than Indian Chinese after a hard evening shopping at Target?
I'd been eager to try this interesting take on Chinese food, where the
waiter kindly asks, "how well do you handle hot?' The tangra masala noodles
(an orange-red, from chile pepper?) and chile chicken were downright spicy,
but not overwhelmingly so. Good use is made of vinegar and fresh, green
minced chiles. I was curious if the food was going to be more like Indian
food with Chinese flourishes, or the other way around, which it is. It's
definitely worth delving into further. Bizarro menu twist: stars are next to
items that are not spicy.

TangraMasala * 87-09 Grand Ave., Elmhurst, NY

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Mar 23

Delhi Palace

People seem to prefer Jackson Heights over Sixth St. Indian. Maybe they
equate travel time with authenticity. Regardless, I do think Delhi Palace is
a notch above.

I tried a lamb and turnip curry, crazy potato-stuffed, battered, fried
peppers akin to chile poppers minus the processed cheese and the lentil
donut. The food had a fresher, clean quality than I'm used to.

The latest word on Jackson Heights Indian is a new place that starts
with the letter S. You can never keep up with this city, can you?

DelhiPalace * 3733 74th St., Jackson Heights, NY

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Jun 19

Banjara

It's right near all the Indian hubbub on Sixth Street, yet manages to stand
on its own. Maybe it's Banjara's corner location that keeps it from blending
in with the rest though I'd say it stands out due to its inventive menu. You
won't find many of the Indian standbys you've grown accustomed to, as was
demonstrated by the obnoxious pregnant woman sitting behind me who was
loudly harassing the waiter about where the curry was. Who would go to
Banjara for dime a dozen curry when you can sample items like duphakt, which
is sort of like an Indian chicken pot pie (you don't have to get chicken).
The tasty eggplant-wrapped, coconutty, grilled shrimp is also worth an
appetizer mention. The only baffling part of the meal was at dessert, trying
to figure out how they got such a huge lemon to stuff sorbet into. Does
fruit expand when frozen? The thing was practically the size of a
grapefruit.

Banjara * 97 First Ave., New York, NY

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