Posts from the ‘What to Eat’ Category

Aug 2

Goody’s

I knew the name, I was aware of the place, but I'd never been inspired to
pay a visit. But for some reason James was bitten by the Goody's bug (it's
one of those deals where he reads about or sees something on TV about a
restaurant and freaks me out by out of the blue telling me that's where
we're going). He'd heard about some Sichuan shrimp dish. I thought they were
known for soup dumplings. To cover all bases we ordered both. The garlic
might have been a bit charred on the shrimp, though I still liked them (they
were sort of orangey, clovey and spicy). The dumplings were properly soupy,
and an impulse order of sesame noodles was the perfect antidote to the
sub-tropical NYC summer heat.

Goody's * 1 E. Broadway, New York, NY

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Aug 2

Nar

I'm always wary of those little restaurant write-ups in Time Out NY
or New York Magazine. Not of their validity–whatever–they're trend
fueled, but that they'll create artificially huge crowds the week they
appear. Such was my fear at Nar. Showing up prime-time on a Friday night
posed little problem, however. The place was empty. Absolutely patronless.
That makes me even more wary. No matter how much one hates crowds, facing an
empty restaurant is even more unnerving.

We only ordered a couple things, an eggplant puree not unlike baba
ganouj, fried calamari and a special of meat dumplings in a sour cream-esque
sauce. Nothing was hideous, nothing was amazing either. I like Allioli and
it's the same owners, so I thought I'd give it a try.

I was heartened by little touches like how they used a Turkish(?)
newspaper to serve the calamari in, fish and chips style. That's the sort of
tiny flourish I'd employ at a party, and no one would notice, and I'd come
away feeling like I'd really, really wasted my time. (8/2/03)

* Swiftly gone and probably already forgotten. Now it's Zipe Zape.
(8/23/04)

Nar * 152 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, NY

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Jul 19

Gabriela’s

The Upper West Side scares me. It always weirded me out how Seinfeld
made it seem like the UWS (ew, look at me making gross acronyms) was the NYC
norm, when that's so not true. I only know one person (and I don't mean out
of friend friends, I mean acquaintances, coworkers, friends of
friends, etc.) who lives up there. Amusingly, that one person would probably
love Gabriela's, as she will only eat things like Italian or Mexican (pretty
much a middle-American palate circa 1976) and likes blender drinks.

Gabriela's was fine. The portions were huge, the drinks were strong, the
tortillas even seemed homemade. We just needed someplace to eat near James's
parking lot that was open past 10:30pm. No easy feat, and Gabriela's fit the
bill. If I ever find myself on the UWS after 10:30 I might consider a return
visit. Maybe. (7/19/03)

Maybe the UWS tired of mediocre Mexican–Gabriela's is a goner. (2005)

Gabriela's * 685 Amsterdam Ave., New York, NY

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Jul 6

Big Eat

The most direct route from James's to my place involves a straight, but
treacherous shot down Bowery to the Manhattan Bridge. It's a total obstacle
course, but at least mini traffic jams allow me to take note of new
restaurants like Big Eat. The name alone sold me. Big Eats would've been ho
hum, but Big Eat…now that's got flair. I vowed to check it out the
very next day, and for once, I actually did what I said I was going to.

It was a big, flashy, two-level, Hong Kong-style (not that I've ever
been to HK, but it's the look that I imagine they're going for) affair. We
were the only non-Asians in the place (which could be good or bad, who's to
say) which proved to be a tiny problem when it became apparent that the
waiter couldn't really understand or read English (though he seemed able to
speak it). Not a big deal, after I figured out that pointing to the Chinese
(Sorry, I don't know my Cantonese from Mandarin, though I will start a
Mandarin class next month) characters worked like a charm.

We ordered crazy east-west things like crab wrapped in Canadian bacon
(it was fake crab and regular bacon) and honey-garlic chicken. There was
also a scallop in XO sauce dish in there somewhere. The overall impression
was that Big Eat was akin to Sweet and Tart in mood, though in menu less dim
sum-y. I'd go back.

Big Eat * 97 Bowery, New York, NY

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Jun 21

Cositas Ricas

Rule number one: Hawaiian anything always rules. Rule number two: anything Hawaiian by way of Colombia is bound to puzzle…and yet still please. After a scary engagement party on the Upper East Side, we ended up like bats out of hell drunk, and still hungry (little crackers and pates just don't cut it) on the BQE. A food trek to Roosevelt Avenue didn't sound like a bad idea, and Cositas Ricas was still brightly lit and beckoning post-midnight.

The menu has a stuffed arepa section and a crazy juice/fountain drinks (jugos, mixtos) section, but I was mesmerized by the "caprichitos ricos" i.e. delicious caprices. Well said. This is where things like hamburguesa farahona: farahona (whatever that is) hamburger with ham, cheese, demiglase(sp) sauce and french fries and salchipapa, which is a plate of fried, chopped up sausage, french fries and hard boiled egg, are found. Of course, my personal favorite is sandwich Hawaiano: french bread, baked pork loin, and Hawaiian sauce because I'm crazy for pork and pineapple. The sandwich is large and pressed cubano-style. Absolutely what I was looking for, perfect late-night food. Perfect anytime food, really.

Even if you're stuffed to the gills, grab something to go from the bakery/dessert case. You'll be glad you did the next morning. (6/21/03)

I wouldn't have predicted Cositas Ricas would be my first NYC meal back from a short notice Portland family emergency trip. But its sort of near La Guardia, open late and does the ham and pineapple combo like no ones business. I needed to get my bearings, and Hawaiian sandwiches can be very grounding. (10/23/04)

Cositas Ricas * 7919 Roosevelt Ave., Jackson Heights,NY

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Jun 20

Cocotte

Duck confit, frisee and fries certainly don't feel like diet food, but then,
I don't really profess to be on one (I'm a very covert calorie
counter…duh, if I'm eating fat like it's going out of style). But
eating a little French food every now and then certainly won't kill you. I
haven't really patronized the seeming glut of new-ish bistros popping up in
Park Slope, so I can't compare (though I've heard disparaging things about a
few others). But the mood at Cocotte is relaxed, the food is good and the
prices were fair. I can't complain.

Cocotte * 337 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, NY

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Jun 7

Itzocan Cafe

After waiting 45 minutes for a table that wouldn't clear on our original
attempt to dine, I was wary about a second try. It's a tiny place, and we
got a weird table by the door this time. The feng shui must be a nightmare
at Itzocan.

I had wanted to try the place because I liked the idea of Mexican
brothers who'd spent years working at French restaurants doing their own
thing. The food I tried was more than fine, but it lacked some sort of
oomph. It could be what I chose, but it felt diet-y. For an appetizer, James
and I shared a souffl, cake thing made of blue corn and huitalocoche with
radishes and mesclun. I ordered a short rib entre, the man's dish and James
a shrimp and brown rice dish, totally girlie. We ate half each, then swapped
plates for variety. The short ribs did it for me, but I lean towards the
meaty, heavy, strong flavors camp. The dessert, a sort of warm bread pudding
with caramel, walnuts and raisins was also a keeper.

Itzocan Caf * 438 E. Ninth, Ave., New York, NY

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May 26

Truc Mai

*Truc Mai has become a Malayisan place, Blacan something-or-another.

I think I need to explore Truc Mai more. I only had basics like spring rolls (they had some crazy sounding version that involved "hash" and both soft and crispy skins) and grilled lemongrass pork on rice vermicelli. I'm fanatic about banh mi and Vietnamese snacks and desserts, but I'm not up to speed on entrees. I did enjoy the overheard conversation between the husky teenage waiter and a loud middle-aged woman with a heavy Brooklyn accent and a weed problem (I've got one too–weed problem that is, not a Brooklyn accent). He suggested she get a goat to eat all the crap in the yard and then when that's all done turn the goat into gyro (pronounced ji-ro, of course) meat. Why didn't I think of that?

Truc Mai * 6102 Seventh Ave., Brooklyn, NY

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May 25

Maryann’s

This is rapidly becoming the new Cowgirl Hall of Fame. A place with so-so food that's good for groups, I guess. A few months ago we held a party for a coworker here. More recently it was a Memorial Day meet-up location. I think it's because people dig margaritas and large plates of reasonably priced food. I just don't know. But in mixed company it's never flattering to come across as a difficult food snob. I have countless other ways of alienating people so I'll just keep my opinions on festive food to myself.

Mary Ann's * 86 Second Ave., New York, NY

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May 23

La Portena

Friday afternoon I had no idea, all the organ meats I'd be eating Friday
night. But Friday afternoons are like that. The evening was all about la
parilla, the mammoth mixed grill at La Portena. They have that oddball
Argentinean-Italian thing happening that makes me realize how little I know
about South American history. So, we had antipasti pre-meat. The meat
included regular sausage, blood sausage, tripe, sweetbreads, shell steak,
and tongue. Enough to easily feed three. No starches, no sides (except
chimichurri, of course). It was total Atkin's paradise…too bad I'm doing
Weight Watchers now.
The family sitting across from us, who were splitting la parilla three ways,
had me mesmerized for no good reason. I was oddly attracted to the Mexican
teen I assume was out with his younger brother and dad. He had this
androgynous, handsome, soft face and Sun-in orange streaked bangs a la me in
1984. He seemed so gentle, and upstanding (that could have something to do
with the fact he wasn't speaking English), so unlike all the bratty teens I
usually see around. He still had that immigrant-y politeness to him. He
hadn't gone bad yet. God bless him, out on a Friday night with his family
eating organ meats. I couldn't stop staring. Thankfully, the walls are
covered in mirrors. Perfect for ogling. (5/23/03)

La Portena * 7425 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, NY

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Posts from the ‘What to Eat’ Category

Goody’s

Nar

Gabriela’s

Big Eat

Cositas Ricas

Cocotte

Itzocan Cafe

Truc Mai

Maryann’s

La Portena

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