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Itzocan Cafe

After waiting 45 minutes for a table that wouldn't clear on our original
attempt to dine, I was wary about a second try. It's a tiny place, and we
got a weird table by the door this time. The feng shui must be a nightmare
at Itzocan.

I had wanted to try the place because I liked the idea of Mexican
brothers who'd spent years working at French restaurants doing their own
thing. The food I tried was more than fine, but it lacked some sort of
oomph. It could be what I chose, but it felt diet-y. For an appetizer, James
and I shared a souffl, cake thing made of blue corn and huitalocoche with
radishes and mesclun. I ordered a short rib entre, the man's dish and James
a shrimp and brown rice dish, totally girlie. We ate half each, then swapped
plates for variety. The short ribs did it for me, but I lean towards the
meaty, heavy, strong flavors camp. The dessert, a sort of warm bread pudding
with caramel, walnuts and raisins was also a keeper.


Itzocan Caf * 438 E. Ninth, Ave., New York, NY

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