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Posts from the ‘East Village’ Category

Cosmic Cantina

Blech. Maybe this place is cosmic. I hesitate to call it a cantina (that
word always conjures up the kooky Star Wars scene). I do know it's certainly
not Mexican food. I only went because it's one of three new restaurants
that's popped-up on James' corner in the past few weeks, and it looked like
the one that would best lend itself to take-out–I wasn't up for anything
spendy, fussy or time consuming.

They can take their "California-style" burritos and shove 'em where the
sun don't shine. Any place with tofu sour cream, fat-free everything and
burritos with names like Sarah and Jessica, is wrong. So wrong. Beans
should be refried, and that means lard and plenty of it. There's no way
around it. Real burritos are fat-laden and that's why they're so damn good
(and impossible to find in this town).

It's clearly geared towards the NYU contingent who think it's cool to
blow $8 on a mediocre, supposedly healthy burrito and drink specially brewed
teas and the like. Wait till they're footing their own bills and it'll be
back to Hot Pockets and Diet Coke. (6/13/01)


Cosmic Cantina * 105 Third Ave., New York, NY

Friend House

I don't know what's going on at that condemned crack hotel corner of 13th
and 3rd, but all of a sudden there's three shiny new restaurants. There goes
the neighborhood. And as it's James's block, we were hoping for a winner we
could call our local.

Friend House certainly has the name. And who could resist the promise of
an "Asian bistro"? The makings are all there, complete with cute, funky
neo-Asian decor that youngsters dig. But darn it, the menu's pretty blah.
It's comprised of typical Chinese dishes with a sprinkling of Japanese
offerings. Well, the sushi bar might have promise–the eel and spicy tuna
rolls were interesting. I wanted to know if it was run by Chinese or
Japanese as an ordering clue. I'm hoping Japanese, because the greatest hits
like kung pao and moo shu weren't breaking any new ground. They had some
casseroles and hot pots, but I was hoping for something more along the lines
of Funky Broome. Where are the lychees? Boiled frogs? Taro roots? I can get
cashew chicken any ol' time. However. I'll probably give it another go and
sample more of the sushi. (5/25/01)

I liked it better this time. In fact I was pretty happy. Probably
because we stuck to small items like dumplings, sushi and mini Peking duck.
I'm a sucker for snack-sized portions in abundance. (3/2/02)


Friend House * 99 Third Ave., New York, NY

Old Devil Moon

There's nothing remarkable about their dinners, but we're not discussing
that here. It's all about breakfast, a meal I rarely get up early enough to
eat in public. But when I do, I want something substantial, and Old Devil
Moon fits the bill to a tee. I've always been a staunch believer in biscuits and gravy,
and this is the best I've had in NYC. The omelets with country ham, and home
fries is also worth a try. The biggest problem is choosing between the
biscuit and sticky bun as a starchy accompaniment. And when the biggest
crisis of your day revolves around what bready item to eat, you know you're
in pretty good shape (emotionally, not physically).


Old Devil Moon * 511 E. 12th St., New York, NY

Cooper Square

I wouldn't mention this place at all, but a certain sandwich needs to be talked about. I was at a birthday party at Leopard Lounge across the street, and I noticed James kept peeking out the window. I guess he was dreaming of cheesesteaks and looking for nearby options. Now New York isn't a cheesesteak city anyway. I'm not even sure where you get one during the day, let alone at 3 a.m. Short of driving to Philly (which was tossed around as a viable option), we decided to take our chances on the closest 24 hour place.

When I saw a "New York Style" steak sandwich my curiosity was peaked, yet I knew I was in trouble. Whenever someone takes a regional specialty and puts their own spin on it, you know the results will be mixed. (When I was home last Sept., Ringler's Annex had "Portland Style Cheesecake" on the menu, which was baffling. I didn't order it, but I wondered all night what could possibly be Portland-like about it. Filberts? Marionberries? Salmon?!)

The New York style sandwich came out open faced with thickish long pieces of meat on hamburger buns with cheddar cheese melted on both sides and some onions strewn about. There was too much meat to close the thing, and the pieces weren't thin like I'd wanted. And to top it off, they appeared to be suited for a hoagie bun, not a round roll. It disturbed me. The oddest part was the bottle of HP Sauce that was brought to the table as an accompaniment. Philly cheesesteak by way of New York with a pit stop in England? What kind of freaks do they have working in that kitchen anyway? I did like getting to dip my fries in the brown sauce, but it just wasn't the sandwich I was craving.

Cooper Square Restaurant * 88 Second Ave., New York, NY

Cafe Mogador

Fridays are tough. I'm always tired and not up for much trekking around, but I don't want to eat at the same places all the time either. This means walking distance, and that means East Village, which usually means disappointment (though there are a shitload of Japanese places that I never try for no good reason). I rarely eat Moroccan food, not that I don't like it, I just always end up eating something else or catering to someone else's whim. This time I decided on Cafe Mogador.

The place was packed, the service was slow and somehow we got sandwiched between two tables of gay men, which made me wonder if there was something going on I didn't know about. But the prices were extremely reasonable, the food was above average and I liked how they had the menu menu with more traditional fare and the insert with interesting appetizers and eclectic specials. We got hummus and pita, and cumin seasoned kefta with eggplant and tahini for starters. I was impressed with the richness of hummus (but that could be because I'm always eating the store bought stuff for lunch that's all fluffy and low on flavor). For an entree I opted for the lamb tagine with apricots and prunes with couscous. I was torn between that and the bistilla because my favorite thing in the world is that sweet/meat combo. I think I chose right. James ordered hanger steak with a basalmic shallot sauce off the insert, which didn't seem right in a place like this, but that was OK.

Dinner passed normally. It wasn't until I came back from the bathroom that something seemed amiss. As it turned out, when the waiter brought the bill and postcard (for some reason they give postcards with the check), his name and number were written on the back. I mean, what gives? I thought James was joking at first, but really I wasn't all that surprised. The whole thing amused me to no end. The meal was overshadowed by the realization that people think my boyfriend is a gay man (I did the first time I met him). What's a girl to do? (4/6/01)

M-O-G-A-D-O-R. I had to spell the damn place out loud like three times so Jessica could tell Tanya where to meet us over the phone. And in typical OCD fashion Jessica went nuts asking where it was. I don't know, it's on St. Marks, probably between First and A, alright? Not good enough. Can't people just figure things out, or look in phone books anymore? After the millionth time of spelling the name and describing how to get there I noticed a young man in front of us pricking up his ears. In a strong accent, he asked, "What you want to know about Mogador? I work there, I tell you everything." What a crack up. I guess if you make a big enough, loud deal about something, someone's bound to come to your rescue. (11/12/02)

Cafe Mogador * 101 St. Marks Pl., New York, NY

B3

Closed: Huh, this is the first time I've become aware of a closing within 24
hours of the establishment actually shuttering its doors. Often months (or
even years) might pass before I realize a restaurant is no longer with us.
(6/7/05)

It's hard to give a well-rounded assessment since the only thing I've
ever eaten at this establishment is the B3 burger. James and a coworker
almost swear by it, but I'm not all that impressed. For one, it comes with
chips. Homemade chips, granted, so they're all fresh and crisp from the
fryer. But I don't like chips. I've got horrible eating habits and love junk
food, yet somehow I've never managed to develop a taste for chips, hot dogs
or soda. I wish I could say the same for sweets of all sorts and french
fries. I can't resist a fry, and call me a traditionalist but that's what
burgers should come with.

The B3 burger sounds good in theory: blue cheese and pepper bacon, but
the cheese is barely recognizable. If you're going to put that much extra
fat on a burger, it ought to be tasted. Oh, I've also had mussels, which
were perfectly fine. The weird part was when the waitress (who was crouching
next to the table–I hate it when they do that chummy stuff) asked, "are
mussels good for you?" and my first thought was that she must mean are they
high in fat because that's all girls seem to care about. So I told her they
were very low in fat, but she wanted to know about nutritive value, which I
was pretty clueless about. So mussels=fine, burger=passable. I'll have to
try something else next time, and I'm sure I'll be back since it's just one
of those places. (3/26/01)


B3 * 33 Ave. B, New York, NY

7A

There's nothing inherently wrong with this restaurant. It just doesn't put much of a smile on my face. I never look forward to dining there, yet somehow I've found myself inside more times than I'd like to admit. For a city that supposedly never sleeps, it's odd that this is one of the few 24 hour options in the East Village.

This Sat. we got a late start–too late for pizza at Time Cafe or mussels at Belgo (It was a Lafayette kind of evening). We wandered, all the while knowing in the back of my head that 7A is where we'd end up. I threw a minor fit like some bratty food snob (which I'm really not) when it was suggested. This is drunk food and I've actually had some memorable 4am moments there, but it's not where you should begin the evening. 7A a last resort of blah sandwiches, burgers and nachos. At least you won't leave poor and still hungry, I suppose.

The funny thing was that on this crabby night, we ended up running into the people we were supposed to be hooking up with for drinks later on. No fancy- meeting-you-heres were even exchanged. I mean outside of Odessa (which I like) and Stingy Lulus (which I'm so-so on), where else would you be eating after midnight? No surprise at all.

7A * 7109 Ave. A, New York, NY

Cafe Centosette

I've probably walked past this place a million times on the way from the 3rd
Ave. L stop to James's. Yet strangely, we've only eaten there once and that
was for brunch.

I was feeling lazy last weekend, so much so, that our fri. evening
consisted of eating at this place less than a full block away and drinks at
the (newly) Irish bar across the street. The food sort of fits that
criteria, as it's nothing you'd travel a long distance for, but a meal is
far from disappointing. The odds are anything you'd order would be better
than what you could whip up yourself–and for about the same money you'd
spend buying the ingredients at Food Emporium a block up the street. I had
fettucine alla vodka with ham and shrimp, a glass of house red wine, and a
cannoli and it while it didn't put stars in my eyes, it put more of a smile
on my face than Pizzeria Uno, or most of the other restaurants in a
two-block or less radius, would have. (2/9/01)

Not bad, but never amazing. I was feeling lazy, ordered fettucine alla
vodka and a glass of house wine, then just realized that's exactly what I
had last time. Oh well. It'll probaby happen again some time in '03.
(3/1/02)

They moved somewhere on Second Ave. (04)


Cafe Centosette * 107 Third Ave., New York, NY

Penang


I'd never noticed the bar and grill addition to the name. I'm wary of food
quality in a place with a happy hour. I've also never been inclined to eat
at this outpost even though I walk by it frequently. Why bother when Nyonya
is so much better and cheaper (I've never understood the relation between
all the Penangs and the few Nyonyas)? But I was feeling lazy and it was
within walking distance.

There's a high kitsch value going on at Penang. It's a borderline tiki
lounge with fake, crumbling exposed brick walls, rock wall fountains (with
either leftover Christmas "angel hair" or fungus sprouting from it), and
plenty of bamboo. You're supposed to feel as if you're dining in the open,
but it's hard to get the east village out of your head and think Malyasia
even though it's screaming at you.

The food just didn't have any punch. The beef satay was fine, same for
the roti canai, the beef rendang was also o.k., but a basil chicken dish
tasted like gloppy Chinese take out, Now that I think about it, the only
clunker was the basil chicken. I suppose the food was non-offensive, but
just not worth it in a city with many other Malaysian choices. (1/25/01)

*This location is history. (6/11/04)


Penang Bar and Grill * 64 Third Ave, New York, NY

La Palapa

I don't eat much Mexican food. It just seems like it's always so blah, and
they just don't do it right out here so I rarely bother. I mean, if you want
nachos or giant burritos you can get edible versions, but they're not the
first things that come to mind when I'm looking for a restaurant.

La Palapa isn't a refried beans oozing with melted cheese sort of place.
I wouldn't say it's super upscale either. Maybe a happy medium that seems
authentic enough, though I'm hardly an expert. They use lesser-seen
ingredients like Mexican oregano, cactus leaves and epazote, which is a
change. But then, there aren't complimentary bowls of chips and salsa or
brightly colored margaritas in sight either. I guess there must be trade
offs in the world.

I had a special of pork loin with pumpkin seed sauce over a tamale,
which was very rich and flavorful. I don't want to use the word earthy over
and over again, though that would be an apt description for most of what I
encountered. They also had selections like nopales en mole verde ajonjoli
(casserole of cactus leaves in sesame seed green mole with red rice) and
barbacoa de cordero al chile ancho estilo catalina (ancho chile bbq'd lamb
with black beans and tomato rice), which caught my eye.

The food was one thing, but I was also entertained by the couple getting
into a fight at the table next to us and witnessing an elderly woman get
water spilled on her head by a waitress–it's the little things that really
top off a dining experience. Plus, La Palapa is right next to Holiday
Cocktail Lounge, which definitely highlights the contrast of the old and the
new East village. Have a fancy Sauza drink at the restaurant, then pop in
next door for a Bud and an eyeful of smoke.


La Palapa * 77 St. Marks Pl.,
New York, NY