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Dim Sum Go-Go

Dim Sum Go-Go is one of those new-school Chinatown restaurants that's hard
to pin down. Modern, cute, boldly color-schemed. Eschewing the tendency
towards garishness while hanging on to the requisite fish tank. The red and
white design almost evokes a fast food joint, but the table cloths and
non-generic dishes imply something else altogether.

I'll admit that I was a little baffled as how to order. There's a
regular menu and a dim sum one (it's not the sort of place with carts
wheeling by) and I wasn't sure which to pay attention to. I was really
hankering for a turnip cake, but all the dim sum appeared to be dumplings,
which didn't make sense since you'd think with dim sum in the name, there'd
be more variety. (And then there's Excellent Dumpling House, with barely a
dumpling to speak of.)

However, the dumplings they offered weren't run of the mill. Fillings
included shark fin, crisp duck skin, jicama and pink dough made from beets.
ordered a combo with one of each (10 total) and then realized that didn't
make sense since wouldn't get to taste everything, so ordered a second. It
was tricky because you had no idea which one you were getting, though you
could narrow choices down through a process of elimination. The freakiest
one looked liked a frizzy ball of fried bean curd, but had a crunchy gritty
bite. My guess was shark fin because what else would have that
cartilage-like quality? The four dipping sauces were a nice change from the
usual soy sauce. They had a ginger scallion, garlic, "Chef Guy's," and
vinegar with pickled ginger. It was tough deciding which to dip into.

We also tried soups, which were simple, came in cute clean-lined
crockery and had names like Song of the Sea and Wise Man's Broth. But I but
I was most excited by the tiny airplane portioned piece of Shanghai bread
that comes with each bowl. Akin to a bland, greaseless donut–I could eat a
whole plate of that stuff.

Upon leaving, I couldn't help but notice a plate of turnip cakes on a
table by the door. What?! How could that be? I also picked up a menu and
there was a whole section of fried dim sum that I swear I didn't see on the
real menu, but then, it was early for me and my deduction skills weren't up
to snuff. They also had a Chinese New Year menu at the register, which put
all sorts of ideas in my head. $365 for ten seemed like a good value,
unfortunately I don't even know ten people and the ones I do know are a
bunch of babies who wouldn't want to do it anyway. Bastards. But me? I'm
definitely going back to get my turnip cakes and try out the entrees. I
suspect that on second visit, I'll be forced to give up their two shovel
rating for three.

Dim Sum Go-Go * 5 E. Broadway, New York, NY

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