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Posts from the ‘Restauranting’ Category

Feud for Thought

I know chefs are hot these days (why else would Darren Star go from Sex and the City to Kitchen Confidential?) but it’s still odd to see a food-ish feud on Page Six, particularly since neither parties involved have much to do with NYC. I first read of this spat last week in the Chicago Sun-Times, where its appearance made more sense.

What doesn’t make sense is why the imaginative object of my fleeting fascination would blatantly sully a big name. Of course, I love to bad mouth, but then, I’m nobody.

If it’s true that poor Homaro fibbed or at least exaggerated the truth because Mariani panned his restaurant, that’s not very smart because it’s not like the facts couldn’t be verified.

That’s the problem with guys in their twenties—big ideas often trumps wise restraint (having passed my third decade a few years back, I now feel oh-so-much brighter). Or maybe Homaro speaks the truth and will be vindicated…and then make my food levitate or turn inside out or something.

Ridgewood, New and Used

It was strange to see Kredens in today’s New York Times Under $25 review since I only became vaguely aware of its existence three days ago. For three years I lived at the intersection of Fresh Pond Rd. and Woodbine St. where Kredens now stands. Despite my fondness for food, I very rarely ate in the neighborhood. The pickings were pretty slim, mostly pizza and fast food chains. I only regret never trying Bosna-Express, which now has an Astoria location, if I’m correct. For being a predominately Polish and heavily Eastern European area, that culture never surfaced in dining establishments as it has in Greenpoint.

This past Sunday I made my bimonthly or so trek to the Williamsburg-Ridgewood border for a Western Beef excursion. We rarely drive any farther up Metropolitan Ave., at least not since moving to Brooklyn a few years back. But we wanted to hit that big mess of a thrift store on Wyckoff Ave., off the Bushwick-Ridgewood border and decided to detour along Fresh Pond Rd.

I wasn’t even sure that the resale shop still existed because I hadn’t been in years. They used to have a greeting card section full of ‘70s get well cards and that Flavia crap that my grandma gets off on. The cards, which I still have about eight of because they’re so awesomely bizarre, aren’t quite like the touching ones on her website. Mine are for troubled children, as evidenced below. The adorable/disturbing owl was drawn by Rena Hunnicut of Borger, Texas who won a National Association for Retarded Citizens art contest. A treat from the same thrift shop.


Flavia_2

Inside: If this happens to you, just remember that it's okay to smile and look away. It shows you have courage inside and that you believe in yourself.


Guesswho_1

Inside: thinking of you

By NYC standards, the space is sprawling, and hardly picked over, though with the eastern Williamsburg line of demarcation constantly expanding I’m sure it’s being encroached. I’ll admit there is a fetid quality to the store, it’s not suburban Goodwill shiny and organized or even at a Salvation Army level of acceptableness. The eerie back room stacked with plywood armoires and particle board TV hutches smells like something died or possibly relieved itself inside. But at least the junkiness keeps the scavenger spirit alive.

Fresh Pond hadn’t changed much, they did knock down a diner for a drive-thru Commerce Bank (apparently, Ridgewood hasn’t made the same upper middle class stink as Park Slope), Maasbach’s had been turned into another branch of the mediocre Corato’s Pizza. I’d always considered this corner of Queens the land that time forgot, and was pleased to see my notions weren’t being challenged.

What was new were a small handful of what seemed to be Polish restaurants, like all of a sudden residents had the same bright idea. I didn’t feel inspired enough to stop (admittedly, borscht, pierogies and the like aren’t in my top ten cuisine repertoire) but I couldn’t help but think how welcome these diversions would’ve been six years ago. I guess somehow the New York Times has also picked up on this new Polish food growth spurt.

Thankfully, the thrift store whose name I can’t recall, mostly because I’m not sure it has one, was still there. I was horrified by their “moving to a new location” signs in the front window, but James thought it was a ploy. Not me, what kind of ploy would that be? A barber shop had taken over the formerly adjoined space where all the paper ephemera existed like my much loved greeting cards. But the bulk of the space was intact.

Books and magazines have always been a favored section for me, but theirs is a messy set of poorly lit shelves hidden in the back. I could barely make out the titles on book spines, but I hit a mini jackpot with the periodicals. There was a pile of early ‘90s Gourmets, (some with mouse droppings stuck to the spines) that grabbed my attention. I like seeing who was writing at the time, and weirdly, almost none of the names rang a bell (Nina Simonds, Laurie Colwin and Gerald Asher, excepted). The oddest aspect was how damn dated everything looked, both the content and ads. Weird Victoriana clip art, shoulder pads, big eyebrows, big jewels, big hair—only twelve years ago?

Granted, it doesn’t take much to make me feel old, but the ‘90s are still pretty fresh in my mind. I was in college in the early part of that decade, art school nonetheless, and I don’t recall style, fashion and design being so…so, ‘80s. But I’ve always felt like the first three years of a decade still mimic their predecessors. We’re just now establishing the ‘00s. 2000 to 2003 totally belong to the last century.

Does this scream ‘90s to you? 


Gourmet

Special Delivery

I’m aware of the smattering of avant-garde chefs practicing their craft in America, though I’ve only dined at WD-50. The other restaurants like Minibar in D.C., and Alinea and Moto, both in Chicago, just aren’t in cities I ever visit. I enjoyed playful tweaks at WD-50 like deep frying cubes of mayonnaise, but it’s certainly not over the top like this bit I just read in Rolling Stone (lord, I can’t stand Rolling Stone and just seeing it in my building’s lobby makes me think even less of the twentysomething subscriber upstairs with a baby and SUV. But I get it at work) about Homaro Cantu, the chef at Moto.

“We did this one dish we called ‘The World on Time’ – that’s the FedEx tag line,” Cantu recalls. “We dressed a guy up in a FedEx uniform. He’d go up to a table and be like, “’Excuse me, Ms. So and So, could you please sign for this package?’ She opens up the box, and it’s packaging material, but actually flavored like popcorn. Popcorn packaging!"

Is that gay? Like I would love to date someone who’d come up with scenarios like that (forget role playing games in the bedroom—I’d much prefer these antics in the dining room), but it’s fantastical and funny that I don’t imagine it springing from the mind of a straight guy. Yes, I love stereotyping…and food that doesn’t look like food.

Dim Sum Redux

New York City does all right in the food department, but sometimes I long for the west coast. Daly City, CA has it all: In-N-Out Burger, Filipino chain restaurants and Koi Palace, which I’ve heard has some of the best dim sum in the U.S. Koi Palace also has pretty dim sum pictures and a seriously comprehensive menu. (Now that I think about it, I have family in Daly City that I haven’t seen in over twenty years, but it’s doubtful they partake in the multitude of Asian goodies available.)

Despite loving dim sum, it’s very rare that I actually get out and eat any. It might have something to with not possessing the breakfast/brunch gene. Weekends are for sleeping in, it takes effort to transform into an early bird eater (though I more than make up for it throughout the day). My most recent foray into the realm of rolling carts and tiny treats was at World Tong, which is currently one of the better NYC choices. Don’t be scared of Bensonhurst.