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Liuzza’s

On this trip, Liuzza's was our first stop in town. Not because we were
familiar with it first hand, or that it was even at the top of our list, we
simply wanted gumbo and it's the way the itinerary fell. And the gumbo,
fried seafood platter and ice cold Abita were a perfect introductory meal.
(For some irritating reason I always get sick when I eat battered, fried
seafood, and yet I couldn't help myself this time.)

The menu is a mix of regional favorites and Italian-American staples. It
reminded me of Philadelphia (not that andouille and remoulade are rampant in
Philly, it's just the atmosphere). We did poor boys elsewhere during our
trip, but I was completely fascinated by some of their unique offerings. If
time had permitted, I definitely would've tried the fried chicken liver
rendition, as well as their french fry and gravy filled one. That's totally
a Cajun chip butty–who knew?

That they seemed to have a police officer permanently planted out front,
keeping guard, made me a little uneasy (we discovered during our stay that
the city only has 1600 police officers, which is so totally insane I can't
even believe it). New Orleans really has a sporadic, ominous feel to it,
much as I'd imagine NYC used to before my arrival in the late '90s. But all
in all, the cop only added to the ambience.


Liuzza's * 3636 Bienville
Ave., New Orleans, LA

Belle Meade Cafeteria

Lime cream salad…need I say more? This cafeteria is a serious period piece, from the elderly clientele to the large smoking section to the nearly all black waitstaff. Initially, I was a little intimidated as I always am in a point and pick situation. Unless you're a regular, it's hard to know what's what, prices, how much to order, and the procedure in general.

Bellemeade1_1 For instance, here you choose your food, it gets handed to you, you put it on a tray, and then you end up where you'd think a cashier would be, but it's just a woman asking what you'd like to drink. You leave your tray, and one of those aforementioned black people carries it to your table. (The South is so weird that way. Sure, in NYC, service workers also tend to be minorities, but so is a bulk of the clientele. It's more mixed.) It flustered me a bit, do you tip then and there? I figured you'd just leave money on the table like in any restaurant, but later I noticed people handing the tray carriers money. Oh well. I also noticed women with four glasses of sweet tea in front of them. I guess this maneuver was to preempt the need for refills (which are nonexistent in NYC, but a given everywhere we visited in Tennessee and Louisiana).

Limecream1 I picked out fried chicken, fried okra, mashed potatoes, lime cream salad and coconut cream pie. It was probably a little much, but the green jello, cottage cheese delicacy had to be ordered simply for effect.

You pay upon leaving, and there's the other anomaly. Many of the food servers (not tray carriers), and the cashier were Vietnamese (and that's a whole other deal, 99% of the servers at Caf Du Monde in New Orleans were also Vietnamese. You'd think they'd have really good Vietnamese food in The South. Maybe they do, but I didn't seek it out) I don't think I'd ever heard broken English with a southern twang before, there's a first for everything.

Belle Meade Cafeteria * 4534 Harding Pike, Nashville, TN

Hog Heaven

Hogheaven1_1 This was my first southern meal. Well, snack, really. Yes, in Tennessee, a pulled pork or bbq chicken sandwich feels like a mere tidbit (to be honest, the sandwiches werent all that huge. We both ordered larges and they were filling, but not the gut busting behemoths wed feared) . I had a chicken sandwich with white bbq sauce, an anomaly I'd never witnessed first hand. I'm not exactly sure what's in the concoction, but I'm guessing lots of black pepper. I was particularly enamored by the mural on the side of the take-out joint, of a corpulent pig with a halo. Cute, but disturbing if you think too hard about dead pigs. Apparently, he had gone to hog heaven. You might too, when you get a taste of the porky goodness (ribs are also a thing here).

Hog Heaven * 115 27th Ave N., Nashville, TN

Due South

Dixiebig_1
There's nothing finer than a chaps wearing anthropomorphic peanut

Bellemeade1
A buffet genre nonexistent in NYC

Bellemeadeint
We were practically the youngest people in the place

Alabama
Who knew they had a restaurant?

Chickenbone
What is this, Brooklyn?!

Hogheaven1
Cute until you realize…he's dead?

Interstate
All roads lead to pig meat

Bealepig
Pigs and neon go hand in hand in Memphis

Fatboy
Little Debbies are pretty irresitable

Jcash
R.A.I.P. (rest area in peace)

Opry1
Weirdest (and most recommended by locals) attraction in Nashville

Salathai
Drive thru Thai was a novelty

Oh Kueh

What I’ve really gone nuts for are kueh, which are really more of a Malaysian/Indonesian/Singaporean thing. They’re like glossy little rainbows cut into squares. Well, some of them are–I’m specifically referring to kueh lapis, layer cake. The striations might simply be green and yellow or the whole spectrum of the rainbow.

I’m a total novice, and unfortunately, NYC isn’t the best place for improving a kueh education (though khanom, Thai snacks, definitely can be had here). I defer to Shiokadelicious, since the proprietress of this site really knows her stuff. I can’t even look at this website too much or I’ll start checking flights to Singapore.

I went kueh crazy during my Singapore visit. If I lived there I’d be 300 pounds–hawker centers and food courts are a total danger to people like me. I became particularly enamored of Bengawan Solo. I would totally get a wedding cake from them if I ever got married. That would probably be a cheesy thing to do if you actually lived in Singapore, but heck, I’m American and could plead ignorance.

If You Like Pina Coladas…

More limited edition candy: now there’s a Triple Chocolate Kit Kat (which isn’t even on their lame website). Almond Joy has a crazy white chocolate pineapple coconut version, which also isn’t on their lame website. Pina colada flavors are so ’80s trashy that you’ve gotta love them.