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Jefferson seemed fitting for a fourth dating anniversary dinner. Special and
creative, but not stuffy or scary. Actually, Craft was the original choice,
but after having to cancel reservations twice (visiting sister in town and
emergency wisdom tooth extraction) it felt like we were being told

We split sesame-crusted big eye tuna appetizer, which was completely
rich and amazing. I think it must've been the brown butter (I could've sworn
the waitress said there was rum in it, which sounds crazy, I don't know if I
imagined it or not). For mains I had the snapper with caramelized mango,
primarily to try the candlenut foam (and baby leeks) it came with. I'm all
about the sides, and have a S.E. Asian ingredient fixation, so foams being
played out or whatever, didn't faze me. James had the crispy lobster with a
kaffir nage (I did not know what that was, but it certainly sounded
highbrow) fingerling potatoes and sweet potato shoots. And to continue
feeding my fetish, we ended with a calamansi gelee. I've become obsessed
with declaring calamansi a hot new ingredient for 2004. I'm even thinking
about buying a tree. You heard it here first. (9/13/03)

Closed: At least for the time being. Simpson Wong, the owner, had a
heart attack, I think. (7/05)

Has reopened as Jefferson Grill with a new menu. (9/05)

Jefferson * W. 10th St., New York, NY

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