Liuzza's

On this trip, Liuzza's was our first stop in town. Not because we were familiar with it first hand, or that it was even at the top of our list, we simply wanted gumbo and it's the way the itinerary fell. And the gumbo, fried seafood platter and ice cold Abita were a perfect introductory meal. (For some irritating reason I always get sick when I eat battered, fried seafood, and yet I couldn't help myself this time.)

The menu is a mix of regional favorites and Italian-American staples. It reminded me of Philadelphia (not that andouille and remoulade are rampant in Philly, it's just the atmosphere). We did poor boys elsewhere during our trip, but I was completely fascinated by some of their unique offerings. If time had permitted, I definitely would've tried the fried chicken liver rendition, as well as their french fry and gravy filled one. That's totally a Cajun chip butty--who knew?

That they seemed to have a police officer permanently planted out front, keeping guard, made me a little uneasy (we discovered during our stay that the city only has 1600 police officers, which is so totally insane I can't even believe it). New Orleans really has a sporadic, ominous feel to it, much as I'd imagine NYC used to before my arrival in the late '90s. But all in all, the cop only added to the ambience.

Liuzza's * 3636 Bienville Ave., New Orleans, LA