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Posts from the ‘French’ Category

Bistro du Vent

1/2  *They closed back in May of last year. Sometimes it takes me a while to remember these things. (1/07)

There's something about this newish Theater District restaurant that makes you feel like a tourist. Maybe its the location, maybe its the not-used-to-tight-spaces clientele bogged down with shopping bags and saggy-ass jeans. We walked in early a weeknight thinking it wouldn't be a problem. Apparently, thats what all he Times Square stragglers thought too. Luckily, we were offered a table at the bar that kept us out of the four-child families and souvenir oohing and ahhing fray.

I'd heard the food was perfectly fine bistro fare with no over reaching aspirations. This is exactly what it was, solid, no complaints. The frisee salad with lardons and poached egg was text book. My side of frites, both tender and crispy. Jamess steak frites were generous. Everything was more than edible, there was just something off about the atmosphere. The service, while adequate, seemed mechanical and distracted.

I just wanted to try something new before a Revenge of the Sith showing (no, I'm not a Star Wars freak, we waited a full week before venturing). Next time I'm in the area Ill likely check out Tommy Lukes down the street. Pork, provolone and broccoli rabe sandwiches are the best.

Bistro du Vent * W. 42nd St., New York, NY

Bouillabaisse 126

Judging from the crowds jammed inside this tiny new bistro mid-blizzard,
Bouillabaisse will have no trouble attracting business. It took us at least
twenty minutes of trudging through fresh, powdery snow drifts (you really
have to appreciate NYC storms quickly, as the scenery turns from pristine to
putrid with each dirty footstep) to make the mere 7.5 block journey.

By the time I reached the restaurant, socks soaked and mascara streaked,
I felt like I'd really earned a soothing dinner and glass of wine. (Luckily,
we knew it was still BYOB. Unluckily, we only had one bottle in the apt. and
liquor stores werent open. We had no one but ourselves to blame for the
tasty, but probably incompatible Spanish red). The wintery landscape
fostered by our adrenaline boosting journey made me a little giddy. This
mightve been a case where atmosphere and circumstance make the meal. If had
been any other Saturday night meal my impressions might have been duller.

James ordered the requisite bouillabaisse and I tried the seafood combo
(which sounded like the exact same thing) for comparison. They both included
lobster, crab, scallops, shrimp and mussels, but mine had a tomato parsley
base while the bouillabaisse broth was lighter, perhaps tinged with white
wine and saffron (I preferred the namesake dish over my choice). I think the
traditional preparation is very particular about using fish, and certain
kinds, but this loosey-goosey Brooklyn rendition suited me fine. We also had
to try the “signature” dessert that I'd just seen disparagingly
described as sour and crunchy. Well, it was sour and maybe more chewy than
crunchy. But heck, we saved a few bucks not buying wine, a dud dessert was
nothing to get worked up over.


Bouillabaisse 126 * 126 Union St., Brooklyn, NY

Tour de Ville

1/2

I don't know why revolving restaurants havent become trendy, retro, whatever
(though I swear I recently read a tidbit about one being created in NYC).
Theyre more about the atmosphere than the food, a timeless draw.

I probably wouldn't have gone out of my way to sample Tour de Villes
fare, but we didnt have to—it was atop hotel we stayed at over
last-minute-planned Labor Day weekend (it was the cheapest hotel we could
find that seemed palatable). And I'm not one to say no to a Sunday buffet
brunch.

And it was pretty impressive, though I'm not sure about the
“California Cuisine” they were touting (I guess every month the
restaurant has a theme, wed just missed a Taste of Quebec). I became
enamored with hotel buffets in Thailand because they had to cater to
Europeans and other Asians too, so congee, museli, dried fish, and Chinese
sausage shared the stage with eggs benedict, bacon and hash browns. This
wasn't so multi-cultural though they spanned meals. There was pasta,
seafood, and roasted meats in addition to more standard morning offerings.

Ill admit being surprised at the lack of fat Canadians, especially since
we share a border—does gluttony obey international lines? And I made a
true American pig of myself at the multitudinous dessert display. No one had
even touched a single pie, cake or pastry yet. Pristine, uncut and awaiting
my arrival. A few families had also begun to wander over and were telling
their children how they could choose one thing. Meanwhile, I was taking
slices out of everything. Well, four things (not to mention the chocolate
croissant I'd eaten earlier). All that slow spinning can really work up an
appetite.


Tour de Ville * 77 Rue University, Montreal, Canada

Au Pied de Cochon

It's extremely rare that I have a dining experience so enervating that the quality of the food becomes almost irrelevant. In fact, I can only think of two other examples of restaurants not worth re-visiting because my first impression was too tarnished: Lupa and Chickenbone Café (which is gone anyway). 

I love the idea of meat in monstrous portions, using unusual parts, and high-low ingredient combinations (foie gras poutine?). Au Pied de Cochon struck me as potentially being Montreals St. John restaurant (which it isn't exactly—St. John is austere where APDC is convivial). And I wasn't disappointed by the food. James had the French onion soup, which he declared the best hed had, and the massive “Happy Pig Chop.” I went pork crazy and started with a plate of pates and sausages that wouldve been better suited for sharing with a table of diners. For a main, I had to try the namesake pied de cochon. I didn't realize a pigs foot was so large. It filled the plate, and contained all the best aspects of pork: crispy skin, gooey gelatinous fat and tender inner flesh. The foot sprawled on a puddle of mashed potatoes and creamy mustard sauce. A tart onion, tomato and parsley relish was scattered liberally over the top and helped balance the porcine richness. 

But–yes, theres a big but—the dining experience as a whole felt abusive. Initially, it was just off, the vibe was wrong, nothing specific. You'd think as New Yorkers wed be used to cramped spaces and long waits, so that wasn't quite it. But it did seem that no matter where we stood we were in the way. Before even being seated we felt a touch beat-up and jostled, like how a bad subway ride can ruin a day before you even get to work. After eventually getting our table, we were promptly ignored. After nearly 15 minutes it started feeling intentional. Customers seated after us already had food and drinks, and we couldn't even get eye contact with a server. It seemed like everyone knew each other. Maybe that was it, we weren't regulars? Was it because we were speaking English? I don't think so, there were plenty of non-French conversations in the air. We finally ordered drinks, then lost our waiter for about another 10-15 minutes. Things started getting odd when we noted our waiter and a cohort motioning to our table, speaking in hushed tones, then laughing. I was like what the fuck? Paranoia set in, we didn't say anything weird, I don't think we ordered poorly, I like to believe were at least moderately attractive—what was the deal?

By the time our food arrived, I was totally turned off to eating. No matter how much I scooted my chair and our entire table forward, the guy behind me would inch closer. After the millionth time he leaned back enough that the backs of our heads were touching, I started to lose my shit. Did I mention this was our fifth (dating) anniversary? If this meal was any indication of the future of our relationship, we were in serious trouble. It was just plain non-good and creepily ominous. I'd had high expectations for our dinner, and all I could think about was dining and dashing (I never even did that as a teen, but its never too late to start). 

The clincher came when James chomped down on something hard in his onions, and pulled out a big fat metal screw. Yeah, a screw. Was this some sort of messed up message? A not so subtle screw you. Honestly, I didn't think so, but we weren't even able to point out the little screw up (ha) because not once did anyone stop to ask us how we were doing. At this point we were invisible, we couldn't have flagged down a waiter if wed tried. So, we just sat and waited, both our entrees barely touched. To be fair, the staff seemed genuinely concerned after politely being shown the screw. We didn't make a fuss at all, I'm never one to cause problems at restaurants, in fact, I'm probably overly passive when it comes to bizarre customer service. Thankfully, the Happy Pig Chop wasn't included on our bill (they offered to make another one, like we wanted to sit in this hell hole any longer). 

The whole evening was so horrendously bad that all I could do was laugh. I mean, it was kind of comical. We imagined an Au Pied de Cochon review being written in a New York Post-ian style. The headline would invariably say something about the staff having a screw loose. It would be a hoot to read. But then, maybe I'm the only one gets a kick out of the Post.

Au Pied de Cochon * 536 Rue Duluth E., Montreal , Canada

Lemeac

Wed narrowed down our Friday night choices to two contenders: Lemeac and L'Express. Primarily because we wanted bistro food at a late hour. L'Express had been compared to Balthazaar; crowds and less than desirable staff had been described (we decided to save that kind of traumatic atmosphere for Saturday night at Au Pied de Cochon). Leanings went towards Lemeac, plus it appeared they had an appetizer and entre set for $20 (Canadian) after 10pm, which was an added plus though I hadnt intended a penny-pinching vacation.

As it turned out, after settling into the hotel, getting ready, checking the internet and all that, by the time we finally traipsed into the city, we arrived at Lemeac at 10pm on the nose. And that just seemed tacky, like you were there only out of miserliness. I'm overly weird about perceptions of others and appearances so we killed a little time walking around the neighborhood in surprisingly chilly weather. Despite the brisk autumn breezes and threat of rain, we still opted to sit on the outdoor terrace.

My time paranoia didnt even end up mattering because the $20 special didnt appear in the menu anyway. Humiliation averted. It wasn't until tried to order that we were told they had a prix fixe deal thats only in the French language menu, which the waitress kindly brought over. At least she was courteous enough to notice our English menus missing piece (though it does make one wonder why they don't just put the same things in both menus–I had a mild phobia of anti-American bias. It does exist and is considerably more retarded than if you were in Europe since practically every Montrealer speaks perfect English. French-Canadians have issues).

So, my bargain meal consisted of a raw milk cheddar and vegetable tart to start and duck leg confit with fingerling potatoes and salad for a main. I love a nice frisee salad doused by duck fat and escaped juices. The potatoes were perfectly crisp and salty. It's the kind of food that comes across as simple and straightforward, but that I would never make at home. Doing basics just right is harder than it seems.

Lemeac* 1045 Laurier W, Montreal, Canada

Cafe Centro

Slightly scary power lunch place that I'd probably never go to on my own accord. See my Time Out NY Eating & Drinking Guide review.

Cafe Centro * 200 Park Ave., New York, NY

Bar Tabac

I felt like we were ordering more food than the people around us, but that
was probably just because it was past prime dining time. James and I split a
reasonably priced bottle of wine, a plate of grilled sardines, and I had a
charcuterie and cheese plate with little olives, cornichons and onions. Not
a bad place, it'll be one to add to the open-when-I feel-like-dining
restaurants in the new neighborhood. After 10pm, you're pretty screwed.
(11/7/03)

Weeknight, after 10pm dining in the neighborhood has always been a bit
tricky. Even more so when a vegetarian tows along. After a cheap seat
showing of Sideways (which I'd already seen, but Life Aquatic was a mob
scene) we were ravenous for food and wine. By process of elimination we
ended up at Bar Tabac, me with a duck salad, Jessica and I sharing mussels,
fries and a bottle of something red that slips my mind but definitely wasn't
merlot. I always forget about Bar Tabac, not that its forgettable or
anything. (12/28/04)

There's nothing terribly compelling about Bar Tabac, and there's
something bizarre about their name post-smoking ban, but it is one of the
few late night dining options nearby. The food is what youd expect from a
bistro and reasonably priced—I cant complain about my $12.50 moules
frites. (10/8/05)


Bar Tabac * 128 Smith St., Brooklyn, NY

Cocotte

Duck confit, frisee and fries certainly don't feel like diet food, but then,
I don't really profess to be on one (I'm a very covert calorie
counter…duh, if I'm eating fat like it's going out of style). But
eating a little French food every now and then certainly won't kill you. I
haven't really patronized the seeming glut of new-ish bistros popping up in
Park Slope, so I can't compare (though I've heard disparaging things about a
few others). But the mood at Cocotte is relaxed, the food is good and the
prices were fair. I can't complain.


Cocotte * 337 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, NY

Les Halles

Duck leg confit and crispy potatoes coupled with a side order of fries. I
swear I didn't know I was ordering double fries (the menu didn't mention
potatoes with the confit). It seemed like an acceptable indulgence,
considering it was to be my last pre-weight watchers brunch. Gluttony was
the least of my sins that morning. James chided me for talking about nurses
raping patients at the breakfast table. I was only discussing the previous
night's bit of arts and entertainment, Talk to Her. Jeez, people just
need to keep their eyes on their own plates. I was disgusted with the nearby
Midwesterners with moustaches' mundane conversation, but I kept my ugly
expressions to myself. It's all about composure, see?


LesHalles * 411
Park Ave. S., New York,NY

La Bonne Soupe

Perhaps my last night of carbohydrate freedom shouldn't have been devoted to French food and loads of cheese, but a fondue craving's a craving.

I'd always meant to make it to Rotelle A.G., but it went out of business before I had the chance. Artisanal is nice, but I wanted something more downscale. La Bonne Soupe is a slice of '70s, midtown New York that I never experience. It's sort of shabby (not shabby chic) in a red checked table cloth, woody, rustic chalet way, and on a random street I swear I've never walked down in my 4.5 years living here.

It was the 25th hour in there. You'd think I'd be gorging myself on dumplings, cake, pasta, pork buns, fried rice and the like, but no, I went for the Atkin's friendly pot of cheese and pate plate. Oh well. If I had a time machine I might rectify the situation. (1/5/03)

See my Time Out NY Eating & Drinking Guide review

Yikes, despite the cramped, harried, faded nature of this narrow Gallic holdout, I'd enjoyed my previous three meals there. It's the go to place for no frills fondue, an anti-Artisanal. But my recent visit was just a mess. I had decided to check out the MoMA store because they were having a 20% off day for members and corporate affiliates. I have some deal through work, as well as half the city, apparently. I didnt end up buying anything since the only thing I kind of wanted were these acrylic rings and I didnt know my size and didnt want to wait in the snaking line for a $10 purchase. I figured fondue two blocks north would be a nice treat since the sale was sort of a bust.

But its tricky because is fondue a meal? Is it an appetizer? I felt like we should order something not terribly huge for each of us in addition to the pot of melted cheese. James got one of those chopped hamburgers and I opted for a charcuterie plate with salad. But I got my food instantly and then that was it. I was trying to pick at my food until Jamess arrived. It never did. We finally flagged down our waiter (who was getting it from all sides because either no one was getting their food, getting their orders taken, getting their water glasses filled or were missing items are given the wrong dishes) and asked where the rest of our meal was, and apparently, hed been waiting for me to finish. So, I guess that answered my question–charcuterie is considered appetizer and fondue and hamburger is entrée.

Now James had food and I was finished and trying not to hog all the fondue while he attempted eating two things at once. And the fondue was grainy like it had been sitting around cooling to room temperature, separating. The whole thing raised my blood pressure and lowered my appetite. I havent tried Mont Blanc yet, maybe Ill head there for my next fondue fix. Or not…$39 for fondue? Artisanal is only $24. Unfortunately, La Bonne Soupes is still the cheapest at $17, but I'm not sure thats necessarily a bargain. (11/3/05)

La Bonne Soupe * 48 W. 55th St., New York, NY