Posts from the ‘Red Hook’ Category

Feb 3

Pioneer BBQ

This is a good lazy Friday night choice, assuming you live nearby. There would be nothing lackadaisical about it if you had to trek on the G/F, then bus it. The vibe is a little more bar than restaurant, the service is casually hands-off like most of Red Hook (I wouldn't call it neglectful, but it's de rigueur in these parts for staff to just up and leave, wander outside, smoke a cigarette, socialize, etc. for long stretches of time) but you'll get your beer and you'll get your food and everyone will be happy.

I tried the pulled pork, which for $12 comes with jalapeo cornbread and two sides. I chose French fries because I'd heard they were top notch and collard greens because I love a mess of stewed leaves. As I'm no bbq maven, I can't be constructively critical. For me, the meat was fine, possibly a tad dry. Purists would probably take issue with something. The fries were skinny, crispy and parsley-flecked and plentiful. Portions are generous all around. The scene is low key and rustic, totally befitting a growing enclave that's as close to the middle of nowhere as you can get in New York City.

Pioneer BBQ * 318 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn, NY

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Jan 8

El Huipil

1/2 *I hear that they've closed. I was actually thinking about going this weekend, too. (1/15/07)

I must admit that I wasn't terribly impressed. But I can be forgiving since this desolate pocket of Red Hook isn't a major haul for me. We had driven over to Baked to see if they had their version of red velvet cake available (no cigar) and happened to drive by El Huipil while scouting the area for Fairway and Ikea development.

I was hoping they'd have pozole or something like it (I've given up on menudo in NYC) since it was the weekend, but they only serve the soup on Saturdays. The menu is fairly paltry. I tried for a pierna de puerco torta, but they didn't have the pork, so I went with a pedestrian pollo asada instead. It was ok, not likely their strength. James got tacos dorados, which are like flautas. A couple came in after us and asked for corn, but were informed that there was only one ear left.

I'm not sure if they were down to the dregs because it was Sunday or if they just don't stock everything and hope people will order the greatest hits. I like to feel like I'm surrounded by plenty, spoiled for choice. I hate going into a restaurant and just knowing before ordering that you'll likely be thwarted in obtaining your first choice(s).

Considering the bleak Mexican food landscape in South Brooklyn (particularly when the Red Hook soccer fields are closed for the season) El Huipil is ok. But in the grand scheme of things it's a little ho hum.

El Huipil * 116A Sullivan St., Brooklyn, NY

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