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Odessa

Oh…Odessa. This place has been a bright star on my map since I first
stepped foot in this godforsaken city. Open 24 hours, it's always there to
serve fried, heavy, greasy food when you need it most. When I first opened
the gigantic menu to page one and was faced with a concotion called Disco
Fries (covered in cheese and gravy), I knew I was onto something good.

I've rarely ventured beyond the pirogies and powerhouse combo plate (1
blintz, 4 pirogies, and a potato pancake). My foray into monte cristo
sampling
was a bit of a let down, but that just may be a west coast/east
coast misunderstanding.

I had the opportunity to dine there recently since friends were visiting
from out of town. It's not every day your stomach can handle Odessa, you
have to pick your moments. My latest excursion brought up the question I've
always pondered–what's the difference between the two next door locations?
The one on the left is dark and one on the right is newer and bright. I've
always eaten at the light since the early days when I tried the wood paneled
version only to discover the monte cristo was absent from the menu (though
on this visit it appeared to be back). One is more like a bar and the
other…I'm not sure. I guess the choice depends on whether you want to show
off your haggard, drunk self or hide in the shadows.


Odessa * 119 (or 117) Ave. A, New York, NY

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